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Modular ViseChomp Mini Paint Handle — image 1
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Modular ViseChomp Mini Paint Handle

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A modular vise clamp featuring a 3 jaw scroll chuck with center magnet for additional hold. For use also with an SPM

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Updated at source:

Model information

Category
Tools
License
Creative Commons — Attribution

(last updated September 10, 2026)

Upcoming Nov 1, 2026: Update to handle that breaks it into separate pieces for easier mix-n-match, including a thinner top neck is finishing testing. Also added a link to the now-published larger vise part.

Overview

A modular painting handle system featuring a vise clamp with a 3 jaw scroll chuck and center magnet for additional hold. Initially designed for use with a handheld spherical parallel manipulator (SPM). This set include the vise clamp, a flat top alternative for use with mounting putty, a handle with a bottom that can be weighted, and a rack for keeping individual clamps/minis organized while painting.

Updates

September 12, 2026

Added optional jaw set for holding corks in place for those who like to use them.

September 10, 2026

Added optional brace arm that clips on under the chuck base and can be rotated to reach better angles. Includes four variations on the support bar that clips in.

Printing

Select the pieces you need, including deciding if you will want both shaft versions or just one.

Settings

  • 0.28mm layer height

  • 2+ walls

  • supports enabled (although most parts print with minimal use of supports)

  • default infill (the walls will provide most of the needed strength)

STEP vs STL

I've included .step files because they give smoother results with smaller files as long as your slicer (such as Orca Slicer) supports them. The .stl versions are included for those who need them for their workflows, but are normally of a poorer quality due to tessellation being baked in.

Do not be fooled by the Printable's 3d preview. They recently added support for .step files (nice!), but run their preview conversion at a much lower quality than Orca slicer and its ilk use when opening .step files. So it is still better to use the .step versions if your slicer supports it.

Needed

Per chuck base:
  • 1x ChuckScrollBase

  • 1x ChuckBody

  • 1x ChuckHub

  • 3x ChuckJaw_sm, ChuckJaw_md, or ChuckJaw_lg

Cork Jaws (optional):
  • 3x ChuckCorkJaw

  • 3x ChuckCorkPad

Stand-alone:
  • 1x FlatBase

Brace:

For fitting under a chuck or flat base

  • 1x BraceMount or BraceMountSPM

  • 1x BracePost_sm, BracePost_md, BracePost_lg, or BracePostAny

Handle:
  • 1x Handle

  • 1x HandleBase or one of the HandleMagbase_* variants if you want to place magnets in the bottom

Rack:
  • Any preferred rack model

Additional Parts

For each chuck base:
  • 1x M3x6 or M3x8 bolt

  • 1x M3 nut

  • 1x 6mm x 2mm neodymium magnet for each chuck (if desired)

Handle base:

For the handle base it can be used as-is, or be weighted with sand, coins, or my current preferred choice of self-adhesive automotive tire weights.

Assembly

Print all the needed pieces and choose a bolt size. I use M3x6 for mine, but M3x8 should fit also. If you want to add any weight up front you can grab that now or wait until later.

Handle Assembly

The weights I use are 1/4 oz per piece, and two pieces left connected to each other will fit in the bottom and should stack nicely:

Then with or without any weight, go ahead and screw the top main part of the handle down onto the handle base.

Chuck Assembly

Select at least one size of jaw pieces to use and have 3 of those: small, medium, or large. 

Gather the pieces for one chuck assembly:

Make sure the M3 bolt will fit all the way down through the center of the chuck scroll base.

Flip the piece over while holding the bolt in place and fit the M3 nut down over it

Line it up with the hexagonal hole on the bottom of the base and use the M3 bolt to screw it down into position

Once it is seated, remove the bolt while leaving the nut in place.

Set the chuck body down on top of the chuck scroll base, aligning the circular protrusion on the bottom of the chuck body into the circular slot on the top of the chuck scroll base.

Seat the M3 bolt down into the chuck hub from the wider end and screw it into place until it is fully seated. Continue to screw more in order to clear any grip from the printed part as we will be relying on the nut on the other side for hold

Set the chuck hub and bolt into place without dislodging the nut on the other side and then gently screw the M3 bolt into it. The hub might rotate at first, but eventually the three ridges on the top of the chuck scroll plate should take hold and the screw should tighten fully. This should still leave the chuck body free to rotate around the hub.

Make sure the M3 bolt is fully seated and leaves room for the magnet to be placed.

Put a very small amount of superglue onto the edges of the opening where the magnet will be placed. Note that there is a round notch cutout which is intended to allow for a pick to be used to remove the magnet later if needed. Avoid placing glue in that area.

Inserting the chuck magnet

It is important that all magnets you use for miniatures and tools like the scrolling chuck base be assembled with the proper polarity. I have a main magnet marked with red along its north end so that I can be sure that the smaller magnets are oriented correctly. For my setup I go with the convention that north points upwards, so the end of the magnet being inserted needs to be the south end, and the north end will be facing up. Placing the small magnet on the bottom/south end of the main magnet allows for that

While the glue is freshly applied, use the main magnet to push the small magnet into place with the proper orientation. When removing the main magnet be sure to slide it to the side in order to leave the small magnet in place. Keep pressure on the magnet for the initial time (40-60 seconds usually) with either the main magnet before removal, or some other tool.

Inserting the Jaws

Rotate the chuck body until the start of the thread becomes visible. Since there are three threads, all three slots should show the same thing at the same time.

Rotate it back slightly until the start of the thread is just outside of the slot. Push one jaw in until it bumps firm against the next thread. Repeat for the other 2 jaws.

Rotate the chuck body clockwise until all three jaws are fully seated against the center. If one or two leave a gap that means they did not get started at the same time, so just rotate the chuck body counter-clockwise until the jaws all come free and try again

Once completed the jaws should move in and out equally as the chuck body is rotated back and forth.

Adding the Brace

Select one of the brace mounts (the SPM version is trimmed down to rotate fully when placed on an SPM handle, but is not quite as strong) and one of the brace posts.

Fit the mount from under the chuck or flat base, aligning the hex shape, with the open socket facing upwards. Fit your chosen post down into the socket and gently press until seated:

Chuck Cork Jaws

If you would like to use the chuck and handle along with common corks, print and assemble three each of the ChuckCorkJaw and ChuckCorkPad. Pair them up

Use a 1.75mm bit in a pin vise. Carefully drill out the hole in the arm of the jaw. (since you use cork for minis I assume you have one, and since you have a 3d printer keeping at least one 1.75mm bit on hand is good)

Fit the curved part of the arm into the curved socket on the pad, with the wide part of the pad facing the bottom of the jaw.

Once it is seated hold it in place while carefully drilling out the holes on either side of the pad. Doing so while the pieces are fit together will help keep things aligned correctly.

Feed in some filament to be the hinge pin.

Trim the excess flat.

Assemble the three jaws into the chuck.

If you are having trouble getting them set evenly, try holding one finger on each jaw while turning to start into place.

Set the cork down onto the chuck.

Rotate carefully so that the teeth on the underside of the pads bite into the cork and hold it in place.

This should also hold larger tapered corks.

And for the people who hold their corks the other way, that should hold too.

And can you see the cute wolf/doggo chomping on to hold the cork?

Usage

Rotate the chuck body of one of the pieces until it is open enough to allow a mini to be placed

Rotate the chuck body clockwise (or the chuck scroll base counterclockwise) until the jaws are firmly gripping the mini

Screw the chuck scroll base down into the handle itself. You should feel a bit of a bump as it gets seated fully.

Holding Oval Bases

The chuck will also hold oval bases in place. Just switch out a medium jaw for a large, or a large jaw for a medium so you end up with two of one size and a single of the other:

The large & medium combo will easily hold a 60mm x 35mm standard oval base with either configuration and also the standard 75mm x 46mm oval base with the medium plus two large configuration. For some larger ones I'll be posting a larger chuck assembly soon.

Related

Large chuck scroll base

A version of the chuck scroll baas designed for holding larger prints. It will ride above the arms of the SPM, provides a wider base, and has complex jaws with pivoting pads designed to hold some of the more decorated bases of dioramas and other such larger items. The SPM itself still needs final pics and prep, but the larger base is now published.



Coming soon

Spherical Parallel Manipulator

The full spherical parallel manipulator (SPM) that will hold minis in whichever positioning you lock in.

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