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Core One INDX Front Plate Delete Mod. — image 1
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Core One INDX Front Plate Delete Mod.

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A full solution for removing the Front Plate from your CoreOne INDX.

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Updated at source:

Model information

License
Open Community License v1.1

Want to look at the INDX with your hands, as well as your eyes?
Does the infinite void beckon you to thrust your hands into the machine while it's working?
Do you want to see your first layer?
Do you just not like the front plate?

Then I have the answer for you - The INDX front plate delete mod!

It has many benefits:

  • No Front Plate!

  • Original Chamber LED Location!

  • Really, No Front Plate!

  • Minimal Shadows from the Chamber LED!

  • Better visibility

  • Better handsiblity (Thats a real word. I totally checked.)

  • Better Airflow (maybe?)

  • Have I mentioned, NO F%$#ING FRONT PLATE!

If you're curious about why I believe this solution will work long term, and why I think Prusa abandoned freestanding docks, there is a 1-page Technical Rationale on the last page of the instruction manual.

Begin with reading the warnings below, and the Instruction manual completely before continuing to see if this Mod is something you're comfortable undertaking - it may not be for the faint-of-heart.

If it is, read on, starting with the BOM (Bill of Materials).

I'm not going to put all of the boring install details here, that's what the Instruction manual is for! Instead I shall fill this space with ominous warnings.

You undertake this mod at your own risk, I am not liable nor accountable for any actions you choose to take. This modification may or may not void your warranty (I don't honestly know). This modification may permanently harm your printer.

This modification is quite involved and requires you to drill precise holes in precise locations; I've done my best to be thorough with the descriptions and photos and alignment tools for these steps, and got it to work without issue. My best advice: Be Patient, Go Slow, Double check before committing.

The printed parts need to be printed out of a strong, well calibrated filament with a high degree of dimensional accuracy. Some parts have 0.0mm tolerance in the design and should NOT be a friction fit, they should slide together smoothly.

Pay very close attention during the clean up. Metal swarf is no joke and it will very quickly destroy things if it gets to the wrong place. Under no circumstances should you use a blower to clean out your printer after doing this mod. You may miss a small piece of metal in the cleanup, and a blower might move it somewhere it should not be.

But enough of the ominous stuff, go read the instruction manual, and get to making a good thing better!

Here's a quick video of the printer running some tool cycling test Gcode:

If the video below does not load for you, Here is the link: 

Change Log:
2026/09/13
Updated instructions for clarity around the heat inserts to use on the backbone. Propagated previous magnet specification to instruction manual.
2026/09/12
Update BOM to make the dock magnet specification more explicit, and added 15x15mm Extrusion to hardware list option.
2026/09/06
Updated Slicer Project Files with Updated models from previous update
2026/09/06
Minor adjustments to:
- Stepped bridge on rear mounting hole on Tool dock for better printing at 0.2mm layer height.
- Added single edge for squaring the nozzle seals onto the holders
2026/09/06
Updated Instruction Manual to rev 1.2; Fixed minor spelling mistakes, added note regarding NOT loosening tool dock at end of calibration.
2026/09/06
Initial Release

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