Stanton STR8-80 Replacement Feet & Retainer Clips

On my STR8-80, the rubber in every original foot had dried out and split. Several of the plastic clips that hold the foot nuts in the chassis had also snapped. Replacement parts are hard to find, so I designed both pieces. They’re meant to be used together.

Replacement foot: This replaces the entire OEM foot. It’s made of two printed parts glued together:

• Base: a rigid housing that sits in the chassis foot cup. Mine is PLA, but any rigid material works.

• Top: printed in TPU 95A. It takes the place of the original rubber, providing damping and isolation for the deck.

The underside of the foot has a 60 mm recess for a felt pad, which gives the turntable grip on whatever surface it sits on.

Retainer clip: The original clips snap in with thin plastic tabs, which get brittle and break off. Printed snap-fits wouldn’t hold up much better, so this clip is a flat plate held down with two M2 self-tapping screws. It keeps the foot nut trapped in the chassis, and the countersunk holes keep the screw heads flush.

Note on threads: I couldn’t identify the thread Stanton used on the original trapped nuts, so I replaced them with standard M6 nuts. My best guess is that the originals are 1/4-20. If you’re keeping your original hardware, the clip should still work, because its center hole clears both sizes.

Files

• Stanton_Foot.3mf: the base and TPU top, plus a 60 mm disc that only shows where the felt pad goes. In your slicer, split the parts into separate objects, delete the disc, and lay the base and top flat on the bed.

• Stanton_Clip.3mf: the retainer clip.

Print Settings

Standard line widths and layer heights work for everything. I used 0.2 mm layers with a 0.25 mm first layer.

Foot base

• Material: PLA, or anything rigid

• Supports: yes, under the felt pad recess. I used PETG supports on my Snapmaker U1 for a clean underside, but regular supports are fine because the felt pad covers that surface.

• Brim: recommended. The large base warped on me without one, though that may just be my printer.

Foot top

• Material: TPU 95A

• Supports: yes, inside the dome, or it will collapse internally. I used PLA supports because PLA doesn’t bond to TPU and breaks away cleanly. Expect a little stringing inside, but it’s hidden once assembled.

Retainer clip

• Material: anything works. Mine is ABS.

• Supports: none

• Infill: 100% recommended, since it’s only 1.6 mm thick

• Orientation: flat, with the countersunk side facing up

Hardware (full set of 4 feet)

• 4 × M6 × 8 mm bolts

• 4 × M6 nuts, if you’re replacing the original trapped nuts

• 4 × 60 mm round felt pads. Cut your own, or look for furniture pads at a hardware store or on Amazon.

• CA glue (super glue)

• 2 × M2 self-tapping screws (4–6 mm) for each clip you replace

Tools

• Drill with a 1 mm to 1.5 mm bit (3/64" or a snug 1/16"). The hole needs to be small enough for the self-tapping screws to bite.

• Small Phillips screwdriver

Assembly

Retainer clip (only needed where the original is broken)

1. Remove the foot and pull out what’s left of the broken original clip.

2. Set the nut in place, then lay the printed clip over it with the center hole lined up.

3. Mark the two screw holes and drill shallow pilot holes. Watch your depth, because the chassis is plastic.

4. Screw the clip down with the M2 screws. Don’t overtighten them, or the self-tappers can strip the plastic.

Foot

1. Remove the supports and clean up the felt pad recess so the pad sits flat.

2. Glue the TPU top into the recess on top of the base with CA glue, and let it cure fully.

3. Stick the felt pad into the bottom recess.

4. Thread an M6 × 8 mm bolt through the TPU top and into the trapped nut in the chassis.

Dimensions

• Foot: 68 mm wide, about 35.7 mm tall assembled (without the felt pad)

• Clip: 25.4 × 16.15 × 1.6 mm, with a 6.8 mm center hole and screw holes 11.5 mm apart