Table Drill Press for electric screwdriver, zero play

Compact solution for perfect vertical hole drilling. Has no play. Could be unscrewed from the base and used as a portable device. 

I uploaded a STEP file as well, feel free to modify it to your needs.

The tolerances are quite tight (we want a sturdy tool, right?), but nothing a bit of sandpapering can't help with.

Has storage for drill bits from 2 to 5 mm inside the body.

What is needed for the build:

• x2 linear rods 8 mm in diameter. The length is up to you, I reused 300 mm rods from the old 3D printer.
• x1 10 mm rod/pipe. It won't guide and can be weaker, used for structural sturdiness as the 3rd pillar. I used a 10 mm aluminum pipe from the hardware store.
• x4 8 mm linear bearings. I reused Igus bearings from the old 3D printer.
• 12 mm compression spring. It's optional for convenience, feel free to skip it, easy to add later. I had a 200 mm spring but had to cut it in half since it was too strong
• Spindle assembly. You can build it yourself or buy one. The body is compatible with the standard linear bearing mount. The one I have: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08JB5NNTB
• x4 M3x30 hex-head screws for spindle mounting
• x9 M3x10 or M3x12 hex-head screws for body caps mounting and back rod fixing
• x6 M5x20 hex-head screws for fixing rods to the base. I only used 4, it's enough. Screws can be longer, you won't have issues with M5x25 or M5x30 as well.
• x6 M5 nuts. 4 should be enough, the number should equal to the number of M5 screws.
• x8 M3 thread inserts of any common length, I left some space in the design for long ones too.
• x4 3x10 mm (or longer) self-tapping wood screws for fixing it to the wooden plate.
• A piece of wood to fix it to.

Assembly steps:

• Assemble your spindle. If you bought a kit - just follow the instructions.
• Insert the linear bearings into the body. Holes might need some persuasion (use sandpaper carefully if that's the case) but tight tolerance allows no play and a smooth motion when assembled. After this step, you should have 4 linear bearings and 2 self-printed bearings installed inside the body part.
• Install x8 threaded inserts into 4 mm holes in the top and bottom surfaces of the body.
• Install Top and Bottom caps using M3x10 or M3x12 screws
• Try the drill bit holders - if it's too tight for comfortably putting bits in, it's a good moment to persuade them with these drill bits. In my case, M2 and M3 were too tight, had to help it a little.
• Screw the spindle to the body through 4 holes using x4 M3x30 screws, but don't tighten it completely yet
• Optionally: Screw the base to the wooden plank. It's easier at this step, but if you are not sure how to place it yet - it won't be an issue to do it later.
• Put 2 linear rods into the front holes of the base. It should be quite tight, so you need to push it a bit. Once installed, secure them with at least 4 M5 screws through the holes in the front surface of the base and M5 nuts on the other side.
• Put a 10 mm rod/pipe into the 3rd hole of the base and push it to the bottom of it. Once there, drill a hole in it right through a 3 mm fixing hole and place an M3x10 screw there. It's not super necessary, but I prefer to make sure it doesn't get out after some time.
• Slide a spring on the 10 mm rod.
• Slide the assembled head onto the 3 rods now, and leave it in the middle.
• Put a cap on the top ends of the rods. This is where you will normally put your hand when drilling, so make sure it clicks in completely.
• Install a drill bit into the chuck and use a right-angle ruler to make sure it's vertical. Tighten the spindle mounting screws completely.
•  If you didn't screw it to the wooden board yet - well, it's time.
• Install the biggest drill bit that fits in the chuck, attach your electric screwdriver, and drill through the wooden board. It will mark a center. I also marked a crosshair with a pencil. There is a small notch on the bottom of the base part to help you with the aim.
• Drop the spare bits into the slots on the top.
• Get yourself a cookie - great job!