Lighthouse beer tap

My brother got a beer keg at his beach house, but the tap handle is boring. 3D Printing to the rescue.

Print out the parts, put a bolt through the middle and pins to hold the alignment, wedge the “glass” cap on top, and viola!

It is probably worth reading this whole file before starting.

ADDITIONAL HARDWARE needed, as designed:

12x M3x12 rods (or print pins). These go between each level (2 per interface) to align the parts. For different sizes, look in the "negatives" collection and adjust. You might want to make sure you have a couple spares for the future.

1 carriage bolt, 3/8th inch by 200mm. (Yes, I did that. I'm in the USA. Sue me.)

1 lock washer, less than 25mm diameter.

One matching coupling nut, 40mm long, or whatever it takes to attach the bottom of the carriage bolt to the top of your beer tap handle.

Of course, you can modify this stuff on the parts in the  "negative" collection in the Blender file to fit the sizes of your parts.

FILES TO BE PRINTED:

The g-code here was all sliced for a Prusa MINI with a 0.6mm nozzle. If you have a different size nozzle, reslice the 3MF files. Indeed, I have some pretty weird settings, including custom g-code, so you definitely want to check anything that has changed from what you normally use. The g-code is uploaded mainly for you to get time estimates off the web site.

LH-Light-Glass - print in plastic that is transparent. If opaque, don't bother to print the lamp.

LH-Lamp - print in plastic that looks illuminated. I used Orange. The dent in the bottom is in case you want to use hot glue, jbweld, etc., rather than something flat like superglue.

LH-Cap - the model has a cap on top of the lighthouse. Print it in black. It's at 0.1mm layer height because it is conspicuous.

LH-Railing - the model has a railing. Print this in black. Again, 0.1mm layer height because it is again conspicuous and curved. LH-Railing-Alt is the same thing only the holes are half as tall, making it a bit less out of scale.

LH-WindowFrame - the model has 10 windows. The 3MF will print 10x window frames. Use black.  If you find the fit too difficult for the openings in the tower, try the -Alt versions for both window frame and window pane, which are tapered and have more clearance.

LH-DoorFrame - the model has two doors. The file will print two doorframes. Print them in black.

LH-WindowPane - the model has 10 windows. The 3MF will print 10x window panes. Use yellow. Mark the cross-bars with a fine-point black sharpie. It uses 0.1mm layer height because of the crossbars.

LH-DoorPane - the model has two doors. This file will print two doorpanes (i.e., the actual moving parts.) Print them in brown. Mark the doorknob with a sharpie. Again, 0.1mm layer height for the inset doorknob-marking location.

LH-Tower-[1..7] - The seven floors of the tower are numbered from 1 on the bottom to 7 at the top. They're all variable height layers. The odd numbers should be printed in "white marble", while the even layers should be printed in "brick red." If you don't want to buy these, any matte red and white should suffice.

The top floor, 7, is probably most complex, so print that first and check the light-glass and the railing both fit properly.

Note that Cap, DoorFrame, WindowFrame, and Railing are all in black, so you might as well print them all at once. 
Also, Lamp, Cap, and Light-Glass are not intended to be affixed in place with more than friction, so you can bump them out with the carriage bolt if something needs to get fixed or replaced. I suggest printing two of each and setting one set aside in case it gets lost in the future. Alternately, if the fit is tight, pring the light-glass, lamp, and cap at 95% or so, glue them together, then affix them to the rest of the model using putty, museum wax, or something else you can pull apart if you need to adjust or repair the model.

Also, due to the small size, you might need to reslice the door and window panes and frames, print them one at a time, put brims on them, etc.

Most efficient printing order for best assembly and fewest filament swaps: lamp and glass parts, cap, door and window panes, door and window frames, railing, levels 7, 5, 3, 1, levels 6, 4, 2.

Testing the fit of your prints: Print the place where the lamp-glass goes into level 7, and the place the railing fits on the edge of level 7. You can use a combination of "sinking" and negative cylinders in the slicer to minimize wasted time and filament. If you think you printer may be sloppy, I recommend using some cheap filament to print tests to make sure it all fits. (See the LH-TEST-FIT.3mf.) If your railing doesn't fit, you might need to scale it a little in the slicer or adjust the model in Blender. If your lamp is too loose, you might be able to wrap it in cellophane or teflon tape or scale it in the slicer (scale the cap too). You probably don't want to adjust the size of Tower-7 or it won't fit right on top of Tower-6.

ASSEMBLY:

Glue the lamp into the cap using superglue, hot glue, or jbweld, as you like. Glue the cap-plus-lamp onto the open end of the light-glass; hot glue probably works best here. (Maybe assemble two, if you printed two.) Using superglue might leave your lamp cloudy as shown in the pics due to fumes.

Once the door frames and window frames and door panes and window panes are printed, glue the window panes into the window frames, the door panes into the door frames, and use a fine-point sharpie to draw in the crossbars and doorknobs. Set them aside.

Once the railing and level 7 are printed, test-fit the door, the window, and the railing. Also test-fit the lamp-glass. The railing should snap over the little edge to ensure alignment. If all is good, glue the door and window FIRST then glue on the railing, all with superglue. Set aside to dry.

As each level finished printing, glue the windows and/or doors onto the level.

Once everything is printed, start at the bottom, insert two pins, set the next level on top (no glue needed), more pins, etc. Work your way up to level 7. The pressure of the carriage bolt will hold it together, and the pins will keep things aligned.

Once you have the full stack, slide your carriage bolt down from the top, ensure the nut is aligned to its hole, put on a washer/lockwasher, and tighten the coupler nut to hold everything snugly together. Tuck the lamp/cap assembly into the top, which should be snug. (You can give it a wrap or two of cellophane or teflon tape if not.)

Now screw your coupling nut onto your beer tap. Profit!

HOW TO MAKE WALLS:

If you're wondering how I made the walls...

1) Make a brick the size you want.

2) Add a bevel modifier.

3) Add two array modifiers, one X one Z, to make the wall as big as you want.

4) Apply the modifiers.

5) Go into edit mode, select everything, separate by parts.

6) In object mode, set origin to geometry. (You now have boring bricks.)

7) Still in object mode, Object->Transform->RandomizeTransform. Randomize Y location and Z rotation.

8) Select all the bricks, apply all, and join them into one.