USR - Universal Spool Rail MK1 (e.g. for IKEA LACK) incl. filament garage and passtrough
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One rail to rule them all... Many combinations, no rewind required, front loading and tag plates for ~8 spools*..
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Updated at source:
Model information
- Source
- Printables
- Category
- Prusa Parts & Upgrades
- License
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
This model has been retired and only serves as a template for interested parties!
MK2 → link
Have you ever wanted to have your favorite filaments always on hand for manual multi-color printing or even for easy and quick loading?
Are you tired, like me, of rewinding filament onto the spool after every change?
How about a pass through from the top and NOT from behind of your IKEA LACK enclosure?
Update 08.06.2023:
Some parts were separated due to licensing of some original parts and my upcoming USR MK2

Pros:
- One rail, many combinations
- Adding/removing/adjusting spool width is a snap, no tools required
- Filament is loaded from the front
- Identification labels/tags for numbers/text or QR (useful for Octoprint spool manager), change them as you like
- PTFE feedthrough from top to inside
- Optional nuts for use with PC4M10
- No rewinding after manual color change
- More addons will follow…
Addons and separated parts:
- Guide block numbers → link

- Rail support for "USR - Universal Spool Rail" (MK1/MK2) → link
- Single slider
- Different end parts for this version and the upcomming MK2
- Dual slider (save some space and material)

- PTFE Clips → link

- Tag plates with paper insert → link

Material:
- I used PLA
Infill:
- I printed all parts with 15% infill
Quality and support:
- All parts can be printed with 0.3mm layer height AND without support (correct alignment presupposed)
- Only the PC4M10 plate should be printed with 0.2mm layer height and needs minimal support
- For the correct print alignment look at the 3mf files
Tag plates:
- The tag plates can be removed/changed
- I have uploaded some examples for numbers
- Use color change for better readability
Bill of material (Rail):
With my setup I can theoretically use up to 7 smaller spools. However, there are 8 passes for 8 spools and all of them should be usable with longer rods.
I used 50cm rods as I need some more space for my next project
- 4x 608zz ball bearings per spool
- 2x any kind of 8mm rods
- 2x end parts
- (spool count * 2) - (2 end parts) = number of sliders needed
- Some wood screws
- 1x PTFE feeder per spool
- Required tag plates
Set up the sliders:
- make sure the holes in the sliders are clean so they will move smoothly
- sanding the bottom of the sliders can help if they tend to get stuck
- put the rods in the end pieces, mark the holes and screw them down tightly
- put the required number of ball bearings on the rods
- start with one of the end pieces and put the bearings in it
- take a slider and do the same thing
- move the slider towards the first end part
- repeat with the next slider until all bearings and sliders are mounted
- push the last bearings into the other end part
Drill the roof hole:
- From the inside of your enclosure, use the back plate to mark the passes for PTFE tubes AND the screws for the back plate
- Make sure you are as far back as possible
- Drill a hole for each of 4 PTFE passes so you can arrange the back plate at the other side
- Now orient yourself to the drilled holes to do the same on the other side
- Using a cutter, cut a rectangle on both sides as large as all 4 passes and remove the
- paper support from the inside

*Don't be irritated by the many holes on the picture. I experimented a lot until i came to this solution
Bill of material (guide block):

- 4x PTFE guides
- 1x back plate
- 1x front plate
- 1x PC4M10 plate
- 2x M3 screws
- 2x M3 Nuts
Assembling the guide block:
- Push two nuts into the front plate
- Use a 4mm drill bit and clean out all holes of each PTFE Guide
- Press each PTFE guide into the PC4M10 plate to make sure they fit
- They may fit very tightly, but with a little force you will be successful
- Now remove them all
- Use two M3 screws and screw the PC4M10 plate to the front plate
- Repeat the process, but this time push them through the front plate first

- Place the back plate on the table
- Insert the outermost end of the guides into the back plate with an angle of 45°
- Now push the guides into the horizontal position
- This also requires some force, but makes sure that all parts stay in place
- Now you can use some glue for safety and stick the guides to the back plate
- Make sure you can push a tube trough all the holes with very little force

Set up PTFE tubes:
- start from the inside of the enclosure, it makes life easier ;)
- check the length you need between the nozzle and the guide block
- push one PTFE tube after the other through the guides
- make sure they are all at the right length to reach the nozzle without too tight a radius
- push all the tubes through the roof hole and screw the guide block tight
- now push the tubes through the guides in the other guide block, but cross them per column (inner/outer holes on each guide) to accomplish this:

- this will make further assembly much easier, as visually one tube will always be on the same hole on both guide blocks
- make sure there is a distance of about 15 cm between the roof hole and the guide block. This helps to push all pipes through the guide block more easily.
- Now pull back the guide block while holding all the tubes from inside, so they can not move
- If you are unsuccessful, try one after the other
- Hold one end inside
- Push the guide block back a few cm
- Try next tube
- DO NOT use too much force and do not damage the tubes!
- Screw the guide block tight
- Finally, push each tube from both sides so that the tube gets a small belly between the guide blocks

Installing the feeders
- Slide a PTFE tube under the rods and push it into a feeder
- The PTFE tube should not be too loose. Use an M3 bolt and nut to secure the tube, if necessary and do not squeeze it!
- Now turn the feeder to the horizontal position, place it under the rods and turn it upwards

- Tags can be removed/changed

Change filament:
- Eject the old filament
- Cut off the end as you always do
- You don't need to rewind the filament, just slide it into a free slot in the filament garage
- Pull the desired filament out of the garage and load it
