Letter organiser

Letter organiser.  The base has 2 slots for the two walls.  Print the base and then insert the two walls into the slots.  If necessary, apply adhesive to fix.

This is heavily influenced by https://www.printables.com/model/117281-office-letter-organizer although I wanted to modify some aspects, so I redesigned it from scratch.  It mainly differs in that I added feet for additional stability and made the walls solid so that I could use exposed infill patterns.  @hatchett_14533's design also featured a divider which mine doesn't (although I've provided the design file so it can be modified in Fusion 360).

Files provided:

• LetterHolder.f3d - Parametric design file
• LetterHolder.3mf - Manufacturing file (note that the model is oriented as assembled so you will need to reorient the individual parts for your printer bed).

Slicing and printing

The dimensions of the slots in the base are the most critical and, as is, the tolerances are quite narrow.  I printed the model in PETG so I found it worth turning on "Avoid crossing perimeters" when slicing to reduce the amount of stringing that needed to be cleaned out of the slots.

Even then, I did find that the fit was very tight (such that I needed to use a hobby knife to make it work).  On the plus side, no adhesive required.

If you want to modify the fit and give yourself some more clearance, the parameter you're looking for in the design file is called Base_WallSocket_clearance.

Otherwise, printing the base was pretty unremarkable: 0.6mm nozzle, "0.30mm QUALITY" [PrusaSlicer] layer height preset, 15% infill.  Took about an hour on a Prusa Mini.

As for the walls, I wanted to reduce plastic use and increase how see-through they were so I designed them solid and then used modifier meshes in PrusaSlicer (see image 4) to set the infill to a rectilinear pattern and to remove the top and bottom solid layers.  I did this almost to the bottom of each wall* (leaving around 7mm clearance) to provide more stability within the slots (see image 5).

They took about 45 minutes to print.

Choose a "honeycomb" infill pattern if you want to approximate the design choice of the original model.

*One word of caution about this.  When slicing in PrusaSlicer, it would sometimes create some "bridging infill" at the interface between the modifier mesh and the part of the wall outside the mesh (see image 6).  Using PrusaSlicer v2.6.0 there doesn't seem to be much you can do about it.  The most reliable method I found to remove this infill was to also modify the perimeters (default set to 2, but the modifier mesh was set to 3) to force the creation of a vertical perimeter.  This removes the bridging infill (see image 7).