Universal Gutter Cleaning Kit Attachment for Echo Blowers (V2)

This is a replacement part for a Universal Gutter Cleaning Kit. The broken part, as seen in the pictures, was attached to the blower with hose clamps, so I added a modification to the print to allow it to directly attach to my Echo blower just as the factory tube does.

Before you print: the bayonet end is a tight fit by design. The bore must print at about 73 mm (90 mm outside). If your printer prints a little small, it will be very hard to twist on and off: check the bore, and if it is under, set filament shrinkage (XY) to compensate (see Printing below).

What's new in V2

• Update (October 2026): after using V2 on the blower I fixed two things and replaced the V2 files:

• No back-and-forth play: the bayonet end is 5 mm longer and the groove floor ramps toward the seat, like Echo's own tubes. Twisting it on now draws it tight against the blower collar.

• Stronger click: the spring fingers have a steeper 60 degree locking face and more squeeze, so it doesn't twist off by accident while you work. It still comes off by hand.

• Bayonet with a click: twist it onto the blower and two PETG spring fingers click over the blower's pegs, so engine vibration can't walk it back off. A firm twist the other way takes it off.

• Slimmer, snug bayonet end: the ring is thinner and sits tight against the blower with no wiggle.

• Spring tongue at 30 degrees: the button for the extension tube sits on a flexible PETG tongue (no TPU). It springs back hard and gives a positive click when the tube snaps over the button.

• Taller button (4.5 mm): the tube can't ride over it when you squeeze the tube in your hand.

• No slicer supports needed: the supports are built into the model. Turn supports OFF in your slicer.

• Stronger slot ends: larger round ends on the tongue slots stop cracks from starting there.

Printing

• Material: PETG

• Orientation: wide (bayonet) end down, as in the 3MF files

• Layer height: 0.2 mm. The built-in supports and the detent gaps are sized for 0.2 mm layers, so don't change it.

• Supports: OFF (they're part of the model)

• Walls: 6. The tongue is then solid perimeters, which flex best.

• A nozzle temperature about 5 °C above your usual PETG helps the layers bond around the tongue.

• About 5 h on a Snapmaker U1, about 2 h 45 min on a Bambu Lab P1S.

• Check the bore after printing: it should be about 73 mm inside and 90 mm outside. The fit is tight by design, so a printer that prints a little small (my P1S was 0.6% under) makes it very hard to twist. If yours is small, set filament shrinkage (XY) to compensate, e.g. 99.4%.

After printing

1. Snap off the support under the button: it hangs from the shoulder by one thin line. Wiggle it and it breaks free.

2. Push out the two thin plates inside the round holes at the ends of the tongue slots (from the outside, with a small screwdriver).

3. The bridges under the tips of the two spring fingers inside the bayonet end break by themselves the first time you twist it on.

Files

• V2 (recommended): 3MF files for Snapmaker Orca, OrcaSlicer and Bambu Studio (geometry only, so your own printer and filament profiles apply), plus an STL.

• V1: the 2023 version. I printed it in PETG with 4 perimeters and 100% infill, and it needed painted-on supports.

V2 was designed with the help of Claude (AI).