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Various cable clips for 2020 extrusions, for use with zip-ties. Fits both T-slot and V-slot. If you are using V-slot extrusions, the original (V-slot only) ones these are based on could be more interesting: cable_clip_horizontal…
It's specifically designed not to wiggle, as pre-existing LCD cable clips for the MK3(S) did and thus were unsatisfactory to me. The opening of the "hook" should point down for a clean look and easy insertion of the LCD-cable. If this…
It's a thing you put in a 68mm diameter hole, so it looks nice if you stuff cables through it 🤷. It also adds a lid-thingy which prevents your cable(s) from falling back through the hole again. I made it for the Ikea PLATSA (HJÄLPA)…
A simple spool holder to fit the Ikea PLATSA closet. My previous design had a filament guide to it, but for the sake of reusability and flexibility, I found it better to make that into a separate part . Spool requirements: Minimal inner…
I've redone my filament guide to only require a single PC4-M10 coupler. While also making insertion of filament more convenient. For the utmost convenience when inserting filament, use a countersink drill bit on the end of your PTFE-tube.…
Yes, it's another steel sheet holder for the MK3/MK3S/MK52. But this one is for the Ikea PLATSA. There wasn't any yet, so it's fine 😉 Made to have a tight grip on both Prusa's smooth and textured sheets. With any other sheets, fitment may…
Instead of using a 8mm rod & bearings in the X-ends, the X-ends have been changed to make use of a single LMUW10 (and thus 10mm rods). No loss of print volume, no custom firmware, it's all fully compatible parts. Oh. And it's usually…
Why this design, compared to alternatives out there? Low amount of filament consumption (17.5g each, with 20% infill and 4 perimeters) Less filament consumption = a quicker print Use of just a single T-nut & screw Can be mounted/removed…
I got a request for a variation of my steel sheet holder to fit Prusa Mini-sheets, so here it is. Sheets are intended to be oriented front down. Printable on the Prusa Mini's heatbed when oriented diagonally. I don't have a Prusa Mini, so…
Update My newer version comes recommended, combined with my separate filament guide . That combination provides numerous benefits, like being able to mount it any time to either side of the closet (not having to pick a dedicated version)…
This is a simple stand I designed for my Behringer Q502USB mixer. Making things more accessible when placed on a desk. It will probably work great for similar ones like the 302 and 802 as well. Might also work with bigger ones like the…
Instead of using two LM8UU bearings on the top X-rod, the carriage parts have been changed to make use of a single LM8LUU/LMUW8. A more cost-effective and overall "better" solution. A single Misumi LMUW8 costs less then two LMU8's. Plus…
Improve the extrusion accuracy of your direct-drive printhead while making it significantly lighter too. If this helps you out, please like, rate and share a picture of the result! Otherwise, please leave a comment with feedback 😉…
Disclaimer: it's a really minor modification, but this is untested . I haven't put this to use myself (I went straight to a 10mm Z-axis in my upgrade/mod-endeavors). Instead of using two LM8UU bearings in the X-ends, the X-ends have been…
Does it work well? Yeah, very. Is it better than stock 3x LMU8? What isn't. Is it better than LMUW8 + LMU8 ? Maybe, not necessarily, who knows. Print settings Follow the ones documented in the BearExxa repo. Credits It's an adaptation of…
Ends caps to fit in 16 x 16mm angled aluminium extrusions for LED-strips. The LED-bar can get warm, PLA is not recommended as a material to print with. Tight fitting - make sure your printer and extruder are accurate/calibrated.
Improve the extrusion accuracy of your direct-drive printhead while making it significantly lighter too. This is a spin on my "BowTie"-gearbox, but made to use a belt drive this time. It features a very slightly bigger gear ratio - but…
This is a (partial) remix of the Bear Extruder for use with the Prusa MK3, which makes use of a BMG shaft/axle and a NEMA14 round pancake to create a geared printhead with a much lower weight. Replaces the body & idler-door from the Bear…
This has been made for use with common 20T 5mm-bore idlers with the following dimensions: 5mm bore 18mm flange 9mm width (6mm belt) Changes made to the original the parts: Upsized the bore to 5.04mm, same as the E3D-idler design (from…
This has been made for use with common 20T 5mm-bore idlers with the following dimensions: 5mm bore 18mm flange 9mm width (6mm belt) Changes made to the original the parts: Upsized the bore to 5.03mm (from 3.03mm) Upsized the…
Recommended print settings: Use the largest nozzle you have (E.g. I printed it with an 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layers) Use 20% grid infill
Bill of materials Description Amount 12v, 50cm LED bar (works for 60cm wide PLATSA) 1 Mounting instructions Mount up one of these end-caps with a single screw. If you install the LED-bar close to a hinge, mount up the end-cap which is…
Can be used with the Bear Extruder v1 and derivatives. Why? After years of service, my trusty V6 suddenly kept developing a persistent leak. Annoyed, I decided it was time for a change, to the Revo system. However there are two things I…
These are all currently available results.
