TPU For AMS - Unofficial Proper Strong Settings

Bambu's new TPU-For-AMS is a contentious material , primarily because the default profile is not good (which is often true, sadly). Annoyed that I got 4 rolls of this stuff that kept breaking along Z-layer lines, I set out to fix this. I believe I mostly succeeded , resulting in significantly stronger (but still not perfect) layer bonding. The material no longer breaks by hand easily , and fractures with a hammer reveal good fusing in between layers, and it no longer breaks cleanly along Z layer lines.

Important Points

• This profile includes both filament and print settings - make sure you take note of them and save them to a custom filament and print preset in your slicer.
• This profile was tuned on an X1C, but should work for X1/X1C/P1P/P1S - it probably also works fine on your A1 / A1 Mini.. you will need to copy the settings over if you have a different printer type than me.
• Tune your pressure advance / “dynamic flow” to make sure you get the most out of the profile. Because Bambuslicer cannot store these values in print profiles sadly it's not easy for me to pass along my tuned value, which may vary from yours anyways.

Details

This tuned profile is the result of ~40+ experiments with the material and test models to tune the filament on the following parameters on my X1C:

• Temperature : The default is too low for reliable bonding , so it's been increased to 245. I tried temps from 230-255.
• Stringing: There can be very slight (wispy) stringing in this profile, even with dried filament, which is unavoidable with the higher print temperature, but I have worked on other aspects here to minimize it to an acceptable level where it's often barely noticeable outside supports (which I consider fine). If needed a quick heatgun pass can get rid of any fine wisps quickly. I often find just running my fingernail over any wisps get rid of them. I don't pretend that this profile is perfect in this regard.. but if you want, you could drop the temp to 240 and get better stringing performance.
• Cooling: I went back and forth on this a lot to change the cooling around in different ways, initially I dropped the cooling, but that caused other issues. I then mitigated those other issues via other tricks, to bring the cooling timings back, except for no aux fan at all.
• Retractions: I did several tests around retraction amount, wipe distance, retract-before-wipe, etc. to find the best settings at the higher temperature.
• Supports: I worked on this a lot to retain the original excellent support performance from the default profile. I tuned several settings to lead to strong organic supports that are a bit more firmly attached than the original profile, but still break very cleanly. They might require slightly more force to remove, but they still leave nice clean surfaces, which i'm very happy with.
• Wall widths/order/infill pattern: Optimized for surface quality and reduced blobbing.
• Speeds: Walls and overhangs optimized for a balance of quality and speed. Not the fastest you can print, but also results in good wall finish.

P.S. I used the built-in Benchy in the slicer as the demo model here. All credit for that model is properly attributed to the original authors: CT3D.xyz. I actually tuned this TPU on my own Zelda key model here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/802705 .