Magnetic Remote Case (LED Strip)

If you landed on this page you probably had one of the following problems:

• The remote for your LED-device is always laying around somewhere where it is bothering you or
• you cannot find the remote control because you placed it somewhere else where it does not bother you - however, you forgot where you placed it.

I thought it would be nice having this remote right where it might be needed without bothering. Hence, I created a magnetic case which can be attached to a white board or a fridge, for instance.

Requirements

• Patience
• Magnets (D=5 mm, H=3 mm)
• A remote control (roughly 52 mm x 85 mm x 7.5 mm)
• Patience

Assembling Advice

I wanted to make sure to put this section before the printing advice because you assemble the case while printing.

Case: Regular

1. Start Printing until the holes for the magnets are finished
2. Insert the magnets. These should have a slight press fit because they would otherwise attach themself to my fan cover. If the holes are still to tight, then you can try changing the line thickness (e.g. to 0.38 mm) or adjusting the step files or python scripts.
3. Print until the pocket for the remote is finished.
4. Insert the remote into the pocket with the buttons facing upwards.
5. Continue printing. Make sure that you have enough perimeters (4 or 5) and to print the perimeters from inside to outside. Having a reduced brifging velocity can be helpful as well. This is the step which is the trickiest one.

Case: Rounded 

1. Start Printing until the holes for the magnets are finished
2. Insert the magnets. These should have a slight press fit because they would otherwise attach themself to my fan cover. If the holes are still to tight, then you can try changing the line thickness (e.g. to 0.38 mm) or adjusting the step files or python scripts.
3. If you printed the inlay, you can carefully remove it from the printing bed. Try to prevent severe bending.
4. Continue printing until the pocket for the remote is finished.
5. Insert the remote into the pocket with the buttons facing upwards.
6. Insert the inlay
7. Continue printing slowly. The inlay should sit loosely inside the pocket and could be ripped off by the nozzle easily. This is the step which is the trickiest one.

Printing advice

I printed the models on a Creality Ender S1 Pro using white PolyTerra and venom-green FormFutura PLA-filament. The slicer settings in the Cura Slicer were:

• Temperature: 210 °C (Nozzle), 60 °C (Printing Bed)
• Printing Speed: 50 - 80 mm/s, except for the first layer (15 - 20 mm/s)
• Layer height: 0.2 mm
• Number of top and bottom layers: 3
• Number of contours: 3
• Infill: Lines, 15-20 %
• Supports: None (important! Use the provided support-models and adjust the settings to print these models as support)
• Pausing depends on the model you print:
  • Rounded: at height = 3.4 mm (Layer 17, for inserting the magnet) and at height =  9.2 mm (Layer 46, for inserting the remote and the inlay)
  • Regular: at height = 3.4 mm (Layer 17, for inserting the magnet) and at height =  8 mm (Layer 40, for inserting the remote)
• Ironing enabled (optionally)