SwingArm for K1/C/SE with Frame Extension Lid Riser (Prusa Remix)

This mod brings the Prusa Core ONE's SwingArm system to the K1 series printers via mounting points from LEOTE's Lid Riser V3.

The original drag chain system has its flaws, and even the custom printed mods weren't performing much better over time. When the Core ONE launched I noticed they made a big deal about their solution, so it has to perform a lot better right? It's so “simple” that it almost seems like it should be common sense.

Disclaimer: This mod requires the installation of the CFS upgrade kit, or moving the filament runout sensor back to somewhere outside of the printer. May also work with the Max (currently unverified) without the CFS upgrade kit, but you'll need to figure out the relocation of the runout sensor yourself.

This mod attaches where the filament runout sensor would be. If you've installed the CFS upgrade kit then you've likely removed this box from your printer. Otherwise you may have to move it back to the stock-ish location.

Once the drag chain and runout sensor are removed, you'll expose the spot to mount the hinge plate. You can reuse a couple of the M3x6mm screws you removed (needs 3 total). There are 2 versions of the hinge plate included: one with a peg and one that requires a long screw. I wasn't thrilled with the idea of the nut undoing itself over time, so I recommend the pegged mount. 

• Pegged: requires a M3x5mm screw, washer and M3x4x5 heatset insert
• Screwed: uses a M3x20mm screw, washer and M3 nut. You might also want to reuse one of the 3mm spacers that you printed with the riser

I pre-assembled the SwingArm before placing it into the printer. This is necessary for the screwed hinge plate and may be optional for the pegged hinge plate.

I'd recommend printing these parts in PETG at minimum, with at least ABS or ASA as optimal. You can use better materials at your discretion.

Note the routing of the toolhead wire in the photos. It's routed beneath the SwingArm spine on the backside, and the PTFE tube is mounted in the front. Avoid sharp bends or pinching the wire. There's a spot to mount the PTFE coupler for easy swapping between CFS and side spool. The length of the PTFE tube has been shortened to about ~332mm (or ~13") from the coupler to the toolhead.

I also recommend using some kind of 90° tube guide like this one from LMaker, even over the tube guide that I'd remixed in the past. Make sure to avoid sharp bends or pinching the tube when you tie everything together. Check that nothing is getting snagged or pulled when the toolhead is in the front left corner.

I have no affiliation nor partnerships with any of the makers referenced – just making use of the open source community's great projects and contributing back.

BOM

Note: You might already have some of these from the Lid Riser mod or CFS upgrade kit

• 3x M3x6 flushmount screws
• 1x M3x16 screw
• With the pegged mount
  • 1x M3x6 screw
  • 2x M3x4x5 heatset inserts
  • 1x M3 washer
  • 1x M3x20 screw
• With the screwed mount
  • 1x M3x20 screw
  • 1x M3 washer
  • 1x M3 3mm spacer
  • 1x M3 nut
  • blue thread locker recommended
• 4-5x cable straps or zipties