Filament Dry Box from Food/Cereal Storage Container (Advanced Stackable Version)

Convert your 4 l food storage container into a filament storage unit for 1 kg spools with a diameter of 200 mm and a width of up to 70 mm.

Make sure to buy the correct box. I encountered two variants:

The correct one is more expensive on eBay (and possibly other platforms, probably due to Amazon's monopolistic marketing strategies that force sellers to sell the cheapest on their platform).
This one has three narrow grooves on one side.
Manufacturer: Guangzhou Baomei Network Technology Co., Ltd.
Model: GZ12 (and probably others in the range of GZ01 to GZ100, according to the product leaflet).

The other one is readily available on eBay. This one has one big groove. This is NOT the correct one for this project because it is too narrow for the spool to turn freely inside.
I did start with this one and gave up when I noticed. However, I uploaded a simple bottom insert for this container that wedges the narrow section apart to create more space.

If you like this design, please consider leaving a ♥heart. Thanks!

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Related models:

• Side Handle for PC4-M6 Pneumatic Coupler for Prusa CORE One

• PTFE Tube Cap for PC4 Pneumatic Coupler

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Change history:

• 2026/05/15

  • I added a stackable version of the lid with an optional anti-slip TPU ring (foot) to decouple the container from the surface it stands on.

  • Stack at your own risk! :)

• 2026/06/05

  • One axle per wheel is now detachable. This allows for easier assembly and reduces the probability for breaking the main part when the wheels are inserted.

  • Also, the insert variant for the original lid has been removed because it is hard to print.

• 2026/06/13

  •  Increased the size of the foot slightly. This should prevent it from dropping out of the lid.

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Materials

• [1x] Food storage box (4 l) -- Make sure to buy the correct one(s)! See above.

• [6x] Screw M3 x 30 mm [latches]

• [2x] Screw M3 x 10 mm or longer [detachable axle]

• [4x] Ball bearing 608 (e.g., 608 2RS; 8x22x7mm)

• [1 or 2x] Pneumatic coupler PC4-M4

• [150 ml] Silica Gel

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Printing

• Filament material: PETG

• Layer height: 0.25 mm (lid, latches, wheels), 0.20 mm (axles, silica gel containers)

• Infill: 20 % Grid

• Perimeters: 3

• Supports: No

Foot/TPU ring:

• Filament material: TPU (e.g., Shore hardness A88)

• Layer height: 0.20 mm

• Infill: 20 % Grid

• Supports: No

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Assembly

Lid

The custom lid is relatively big and should probably be printed diagonally, angled 45° on the Z axis, depending on your printer.

• Print the Lid and 6 latches, preferably from PETG because it is more flexible than PLA and has a good layer adhesion.

• Pull the seal from the original lid and press it into the groove around the edge of the printed lid.

• Attach the 6 latches to the lid using one screw each.

• Continue with the wheels section below.

Wheels

• Print two wheels.

  • You might prefer a random seam position to avoid one continuous bump on the wheel.

• Install ball bearings:

  • Press the four bearings into the wheels from the sides.

  • Make sure not to get them jammed, they should end up flush with the sides of the wheels.

• Insert the detachable axle:

  •  Take a look at the detachable axle: one side is chamfered.

  • Insert the chamfered side into the side of the wheel that has a hole with the matching profile.

    • Turn the axle until the profiles of the axle and the wheel are aligned and press it inside the hole until it is flush with the ball bearing and the rest of the wheel.

• Insert the axle of the main part (lid) into the other side of the wheel and bend the sides carefully until you can fit the other end as well.

  • This should work well with parts printed from PETG because they are relatively flexible.

• Attach the detachable axle:

  • Align the holes of the wheel (and its detachable axle) and side of the main part.

  • Insert the screw from the side of the main part and screw it in until the axle is completely pulled into the side.

  • You might need to turn the wheel a bit until the profile of the axle fits into the side.

  • The wheel should be prevented from rotating for a while until the axle is pulled into its final position.

• Repeat the process with the other wheel as well.

Pneumatic Couplers

• Drill a 5 or 5.5 mm hole for the pneumatic coupler into the container.

  • There are two suggested positions:

    • At or near the 3.0 l mark for an outlet near the bottom of the box.

    • Between the 0.5 l mark and the bottom (where the 0.25 l) for an outlet near the top of the box.

  • I suggest using both positions. That allows you to seal the container when it is not used by feeding the filament into the other coupler and securing the tube there as well.

• Carefully screw the coupler into the hole from outside the container.

  • If it won't go in easily, move the drill in a circular motion inside the hole to enlarge the hole a margin and try again.

  • Don't overtighten the coupler so that the o-ring seals the hole but the container does not crack.

• Counter the pneumatic connector with the printed counterpart from the inside of the container; again without overtightening it.

Note: The tube might get stuck in the coupler if you turn it while it is locked. Always remove the tube from the couplers until it is positioned and then secure both couplers without moving the tube too much.

Silica Gel Container

• Depending on your preference you can print either or both silica gel containers.

• Container 1 fits the side of the container with the scale, container 2 fits the side with the grooves.

• There is a dot in the rim of the custom lid which marks the side that fits the grooved side of the container.

• You might want to use transparent filament and silica gel with a color indicator so that you can easily see when it needs to be changed.