3D printed wireless mouse based on the Logitech G9X

Things to buy:

1. https://www.amazon.com/California-JOS-Breadboard-Optional-Multicolored/dp/B0BRTHR2RL/ref=sr_1_3?sr=8-3 (to strip the end and use the metal connector to join the mouse wheel.)
2. https://www.amazon.com/Fast-Quik-Removal-Alloy-4-5ft/dp/B017ROFFEW low melt solder sticks.
3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XXN7DBG shorter encoder because the one in there will push the left mouse button up (too big.)
4. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DB2351FH m2 screws.
5. https://www.aliexpress.com/p/order/index.html?spm=a2g0o.home.headerAcount.2.468a6278QJ01pO
6. The stuff at the end for the mouse wheel (optional, but recommended.)

Programs needed: Raw accel.

Just the wireless version I made.
It was made to fit the vxe r1 pcb.

Please don't redistribute this.

I regret putting this online mostly because someone will turn around and start selling this themselves so PLEASE report them, do the right thing please.

I don't condone anyone selling this.

Still to do:
Write instructions.
To be honest, I'll probably have to make another.

Edit 3/22/26: I bought another vxe r1. It will be here on the 25th. I'll update with instructions after some time.

3/26/26: printing out the files and setting up profiles.

3/27/26: remove power button cover. Use a soldering iron with this tip: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807774637567.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.46.1d471802RSvNoE&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa for soldering these things in: M2 M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 Brass Hot Melt Insert Knurled Nut Thread Heat Molding Double Twill Injection Embedment Nut For 3D Printer.
Length 3mm 50pcs, M2(OD3.2mm) <--
Solder those 3 heat inserts in.
Use 3 m2x4mm screws: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DB2351FH
that secure the board down.
Desolder this switch: https://i.imgur.com/Thy0GK7.jpeg
Put rmbadaptervxe11_4 on the right mouse button.

3/28/26*: Remove the support under: https://i.imgur.com/ylvC5Gq.jpeg (the stuff under the staircase looking stuff, you can use flat tweezers.) I already removed it though, just know there will be support material there that prevents the USB from sliding in. If the USB receiver doesn't slide in you can sand from the middle little by little (with something flat) until it does slide in.
Sand the mouse wheel inner hole slightly so this piece can slide in (use a circular sanding tool): https://i.imgur.com/IsnzubZ.jpeg glue together the pieces. Use hot glue, you have to be quick about it. Put glue on the two rectangle pieces that stick out. Sandwich two those pieces like so: https://i.imgur.com/cyEi3Sw.jpeg. Stick a tack through that piece shown.
Use needle nose pliers to push it through.
Use a fresh tack to widen this hole (so you can stick this part through): https://i.imgur.com/Gmh9SzH.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/0oo6eZY.jpeg put this battery like this.
Cut these side button switches like: https://i.imgur.com/X5gqAaL.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/3RYpW0T.jpeg (cut AROUND the trace.)
Use tweezers to slide these in (side buttons): https://i.imgur.com/jMM4sN0.png pay attention to the orientation.
https://i.imgur.com/SFx06t8.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/XR3hxTF.jpeg line it up and glue (small amount) the area below my sharpie mark. Hurry up and line up the pcb. Put the ribbon cable back in.
Put these 3 heat inserts in (line them up as best as you can in the holes beforehand.)
Buy these https://www.amazon.com/California-JOS-Breadboard-Optional-Multicolored/dp/B0BRTHR2RL/ref=sr_1_3?sr=8-3 clip the male end off. Use the clipped end to connect the mouse wheel and the mouse encoder. Rub super glue using a tack to seep it down and spread it around.
Clip this part like this (I think I might need to extrude(cut) those faces.): https://i.imgur.com/aIqKxcL.jpeg
Desolder this switch:https://i.imgur.com/s8gM9W6.jpeg (left) with low melt solder: https://www.amazon.com/Fast-Quik-Removal-Alloy-4-5ft/dp/B017ROFFEW and replace it with https://i.imgur.com/s8gM9W6.jpeg (right switch.)
On second thought, the mouse encoder needs to be replaced. I don't know which one I bought. Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XXN7DBG this.
Added these:https://i.imgur.com/W0xMAMY.png for dot mouse feet.
Dot mouse feet in question: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805431526676.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.9.7093f19cHPfG5l&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

3/30*/26: added these 4 pieces: https://i.imgur.com/Nix9PTf.jpeg
5*: https://i.imgur.com/s43I8rt.png
A program called "raw accel" needs to be downloaded and the rotational number needs to be set to -3 or something around there.

Also some feedback on the scroll wheel from a buyer:

"7:36 PM

Yo figured I'd update you on getting a decent scroll wheel to work in the g9x. I had to file off just a tiny bit on the right side of the scroll wheel opening. My best guess is maybe like half a mm? Maybe a little less. Definitely not more than 1mm
This is with the 8mm encoder that is in the shell right now, but I might mess around with a 9mm encoder some time in the future as I learn to solder
The only scroll wheel that fit well that is also readily available is a Steelseries Sensei 310 scroll wheel from AliExpress. Everything else was either too large or the axle that goes into the encoder was too short. Unfortunately the rubber ring on the scroll wheel is slightly too fat, which you could just increase the size of the opening, but I ended up just using a separate scroll wheel ring that is sold as a replacement ring for finalmouse mice scroll wheels (I'll link both the scroll wheel and the ring at the end as well as pictures of it put together at the end if you're interested)
The steelseries sensei 310 scroll wheel's axle is actually a little too long on both sides, but easily fixable. On the side that inserts into the encoder, there's a section where the axle's diameter increases (probably where it's supposed to stop it from going in any further to fit the sensei 310). Because of this, I was able to put 3 M2 nylon washers on the axle that act as a way to line up the wheel into the shell's scroll wheel opening. For the other side of the axle (that sits on the middle mouse button switch) I had to cut off a little bit on the end so that it didn't extend past the switch and prevent the shell from closing all the way (it got in the way of the piece on the top shell that presses down on the right click switch plunger)

I had also previously filed out a bit of the little cage piece that holds the right side axle of the scroll wheel in place on top of the mmb switch plunger, so I'm not sure how well it will work with the scroll wheel without editing that part of the file. But I used thin strips of 300CLE double sided tape sheets to hold that cage in place on the PCB because using the scroll wheel would displace the cage which made the axle move off the plunger, so the middle mouse button didn't work (this happened with the original scroll wheel but I'm pretty sure it will happen with any scroll wheel)
Steelseries sensei 310 wheel: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPz8uLJ
Finalmouse BTL scroll wheel ring: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtIoPVR
3x M2 nylon washers 2mm ID 5mm OD 0.3mm thick to put on the axle to line up the scroll wheel
Pictures of the scroll wheel in the mouse with the top shell off so you can see how it looks (you can also see the washers but they are kind of hard to see) as well as a picture of it all put together showing the wheel fitting:
https://imgur.com/a/k388Ie1"'

4/24/26: I switched the links to imgur. No weird ads pop-up now.

"Why does it need to cost so much?"

...I took years to make this. I don't think it's a lot, honestly. 

How much would you pay to preserve history?

Please don't steal, thanks.

I don't know if I put this above but the corepads and dot mouse feet sit at different heights, hence the two variants existing.