FAAC DL2 868 SLH remote replacement case (4 buttons version included!)

What?

I've created a case for a FAAC DL2 868-SLH remote (in my case, used for a garage/car-park door), as mine broke but the electronics were still fine (and a new one + programming cost 40€).

I only found this one for this specific model, and although it uses the same screws the original one has, it depends on a joint that seems too small to be sturdy enough.

It has the following specs:

• The cases have a + and a - symbol internally to make sure the correct polarity of the batteries when placing them.

• There is a small pass-through hole to attach it to a key ring.

• A single-layer square over the led to see the light but not having a direct hole to the remote. I've not tested with dark filaments, but at least with white PETG it brights fine.

• I added a couple notches on the sides of the remote to make it easier to take appart, as both parts have a tight fit.

I've uploaded the STEP files in case someone finds them useful.

DL4 version

I only have a DL2 version (2 buttons), but while searchin I found out that there is a DL4 version with 4 buttons. I've added a 3MF and a step file for it too. Please be aware that I'm not able to test it, but it should be fine (buttons are placed simmetrically). If someone has a DL4 and is able to test it please let me know!

Needs:

You can use the same components from the original remote. Mine has extra holes for screws, but the two original ones on the opposite corners seem to do the trick too (at least on an initial assembly, can't tell on the long term).

 You can use some small wood screws of 2mm of diameter and between 5 and 8mm of length if you want to use all the holes or you've lost the original ones. At least with my printer tolerances both cases fit really good (it's actually hard to take them appart without the notches), so 5mm should be enough.

Considerations:

The case is NOT water-tight. This is the most complex model I've ever done and I just started a couple months ago, so I have no idea of how to make a simple-enough buttons that are not just holes.

PETG is highly recommended if you're going to keep the remote in the car. PLA may bend in high temps (and leaving the car under the sun will definitely be considered high temps for PLA).

Assembly

Be careful during the process to not short the board with the contacts, as you could damage it. Also, test the fit between both cases first so you make sure your tolerances are fine enough.

 1- Take out the components of the original remote. Besides the case itself there should be the following ones:

• Two screws.

• Two CR2032 batteries (may be a good idea to put new ones so you can forget about them for a longer period).

• The board.

• The battery contacts: two thin metal plates, one flatter than the other.

2- The bottom part of the case goes first, it's the one that has five small holes below it. Place the negative battery contact; the first bend must be inside the battery circle so the bend goes over the circle protrusion. This is the flatter thin metal plate.

 3- Place two CR2032 batteries. The + side goes upwards.

 4- Place the other batter contact (the one with a bigger bend bit) over the battery. This contact has two small “ears”, they go inside these rails:

 5- Put the board with the buttons facing up and the notch next to the battery. At this point the contact is not too god, if you want to test it make sure to make some pressure on the top of the battery (if you press the board the + contact goes up and the electricity doesn't flow).

 6- Put the top cover. BE CAREFUL HERE, place it on a flat surface and try to push equally on all sides. The top case makes pressure on the + connector, so pushing it first from the battery can make some leverage on it, moving it and/or moving the board too.

 7- Test the buttons. Place the screws. If your filament is dark you may not see the light through the case.