T-Stop Cleat for bungee cord (kayaks, etc.)

T-Stop insert for bungee cord like the gear rack on my Lifetime-brand kayak. Also works for tarp grommets, etc. An old bungee broke on the kayak gear rack, and I couldn't find replacement metal t-stops to order. Paracord Planet has some that look about right, but they're too small and way too weak.

Default model size fits common watercraft bungee sizes for ¼"(6mm) cord. It can be scaled up to fit larger 5/16" cords, but I haven't tried scaling it down to smaller sizes like ~4mm paracord. The tab may get too thin and brittle at really small sizes.

Note: For strength, the plastic model is thicker than the original metal t-stops, so you might have to drill out the original hole (e.g. in your kayak) to be a slightly larger diameter. About 10mm should do it. My kayak had an ~8mm hold to begin with.

Don't use PLA due to its low temp resistance and susceptibility to layer sheering!

Any other filament should work okay. I recommend printing with ASA due to its superior UV resistance, and ability to be fused with ASA/ABS glue. The collared version should be mechanically strongest if chemically fused, and the smaller piece has a bump in it for additional mechanical holding. Fuse it to the main tee. The non-collar version has a smaller gap which can be fused back to itself by using a clamp while the ASA/ABS glue works its magic.

PETG would be my second choice if you can't print ASA or ABS, but use the non-collared version. The collar version really requires being fused and superglue on PETG isn't going to cut it.

Note: The plumbing section of your local hardware store has inexpensive ASA/ABS/PVC glue, sometimes called ABS/PVC Weld or other names, and it's often blue. You don't need to special order a 3D printing version of the glue unless you want a specific color match.

Installation Instructions (also see photos)

1. Use sharp scissors, but don't cut your bungee cord until you're ready to insert it into the t-stop. In my experience, bungee will start slowly unraveling, making it harder to insert the longer you wait. 

2. Insert the cut end into the tee. It may help to twist the cord into the tee if it's a tight fit.

3. Extend the cord about an inch (4cm) past the tee, and use a butane torch or lighter to melt the end of the cord so it doesn't unravel. You'll want the melted bulb at the end of the cord to be a little wider than the interior diameter of the tee.

4. After the cord end cools, put a little superglue at the end and slide it back down into the tee. sping the tee around the cord so the glue covers all sides.

5. Assuming you used ASA or ABS, use ASA/ABS glue to fuse the collar onto the tee, or the uncollared version back to itself. Use wood clamps to hold the pressure will the fuse bond hardens.

6. If you don't have clamps, Wrap it tightly with masking tape aka paper tape. It makes a pretty good light duty clamp.

7. Happy printing and have fun out on the water!

PS. If you don't use ASA or ABS, use PETG instead and use a generous amount of super glue to connect the bungee to the tee. As long as the fit is tight, that should work well enough on the non-collared version. I like Loctite Gel Control for superglue. Medium CA should also work.