Portable Ham Radio PTT Switch - Handheld Joystick Grip and Desk Puck (M7 Pushbutton, 3.5 mm)

Overview

A push-to-talk switch in two housings that share the same M7 brass pushbutton and 3.5 mm mono cable. The joystick grip is a compact handheld stick with finger grooves and a thumb-angled top. The desk puck is a low cone with a fender washer for weight and four magnets in the base, so it stays put on a picnic table or sticks to a steel surface. Print one or both; the switch and cable are the same.

On the Air

Built for portable and POTA operating where a hand mic is not always handy. The 3.5 mm mono plug works with any rig that takes a PTT on a 3.5 mm jack. Wiring is tip and sleeve to the two switch tabs.

The joystick is about 88 mm long and 32 x 30 mm through the grip. Nothing sticks out past the bottom cap, so it drops into a go-kit pouch without snagging. The puck is 90 mm across and 32 mm tall, with a flat top for the button and the cord out one side.

Note on the switch: the one used here is a self-locking (latching) type. Press once to transmit, press again to return to receive. That works well for long overs and net control, but it will not unkey on its own if you let go, so keep an eye on it. If your supplier offers a momentary version in the same M7x0.75 brass housing, it should drop straight in.

Print Settings

- Printer: Bambu Lab X1C, 0.4 mm nozzle

- Material: PETG (tougher than PLA and holds up in a hot car or in the sun at a park)

- Layer height: 0.20 mm

- Walls: 3

- Infill: 15% gyroid

- Supports: none on any part

- Orientation (the 3MF files are already laid out this way):

• Joystick grip: upright, standing on its threaded end

• Joystick cap: flat bottom down

• Puck shell: wide end down

• Puck base: flat bottom down

- Bridges: the grip's switch panel bridges the 18 mm bore, and the puck ceiling bridges about 23 mm. Both print cleanly in PETG without supports.

Hardware and Assembly

Both versions:

- 1x M7x0.75 brass pushbutton switch, 1NO, 10 mm hex nut, 5.6 mm thread length: https://a.co/d/0cLjTk7Q

- 1x 3.5 mm mono cable with plug, about 3.5 mm OD: https://a.co/d/09pXNOWP

Puck only:

- 1x 2 in fender washer (50.8 mm OD x 1.3 mm) - https://a.co/d/04qyiagk

- 4x 10 x 4 mm neodymium disc magnets - https://a.co/d/06ZuD7XS

- CA glue or epoxy for the washer

Joystick assembly:

1. Feed the cable up through the cap and out the top of the grip's bore.

2. Tie an overhand knot in the cable just above the cap's internal boot. The knot takes any pull, not the solder joints.

3. Solder tip and sleeve to the two switch tabs.

4. Push the switch up through the bore from below until its shoulder seats in the 10 mm counterbore under the top panel.

5. Fit the crush washer and nut on top and snug the nut with a 10 mm wrench. Hand-snug only.

6. Screw the cap on by hand.

Puck assembly:

1. Glue the fender washer into the pocket inside the base - if you want it heavier, just stack the magnets.

2. Press the four magnets into the underside pockets. Crush ribs hold them flush. Polarity does not matter for sticking to steel.

3. Feed the cable in through the side hole and knot it inside.

4. Solder tip and sleeve to the switch tabs.

5. Seat the switch from inside, then fit the washer and nut on the flat top and snug it.

6. Screw the base into the shell.

Makes, remixes, and fit reports with other switches or rigs are welcome.

73, KE4WLE