Tarmo4 DJI FPV Mod V2

Using some preexisting DJI FPV mounts for drones I remixed them to work for the Tarmo4 as an FPV system. The FC_ESC_CaseBot is glued to the center gear box top using Guerrilla Glue (any glue will do). I decided to do it this way to allow for mounting as desired by the user. The camera sits left of the air unit center line so gluing it on the right side of the gearbox lid allows for the camera to be perfectly centered. I included a basic wiring diagram of how I have my setup wired. The flight controller and ESC I'm using are the Kakute F7 HDV setup with prebuilt wiring harnesses. This reduces the amount of soldering needed except your power wires from the drone ESC to the RC car ESC so they share the same XT60 connector. I'm aware that you could power the DJI air unit directly but it is not recommended by DJI and I had spare units for this setup. Best of luck and happy driving. This is a great project and RC car! I'm new to the design world and Tarmo so be nice :D.

Example Video:

My other Tarmo Mod - LED light mount:

https://www.printables.com/model/460281-tarmo4-led-headlights-shock-mounts 

Major props to Kris who designed the Tarmo check out the Tarmo4 here:

Tarmo4 Body - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178426
Tarmo4 Suspension - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178427
Tarmo4 Drivetrain - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178625

https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineeringNS/

Tips:

Print the AirUnitCase with the portion that holds the air unit facing downward, print with supports and uncheck "Don't support bridges" option. You will need to take some time to remove the supports but it will come out fairly clean with a little work. The minimal supports that print in the screw holes do not need to be removed. The screws will push them away. Use M3 screws, making sure to use a slightly longer screw for the part that will secure the camera mount. Camera mount will also require supports as well, easily removed.

Version 2 Notes:

Improved topology of the base and air unit holder to ensure missing geometry isn't an issue when put through a slicer.

Added notches to the air unit holder and base so that they lock in place. I found that with V1 the vibrations from the car would cause them to jiggle loose. It would remain intact for me driving but this should help ensure stability.

• Tightened up the area around the antennas for bot the lid and air unit holder. This will help keep the antennas snug and secure as they tend to get loose after driving. I would recommend zip tying your antennas to anything around it for further security.

Print Settings:

Printer brand:

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

.20

Infill:

15%

Filament material:

PLA