22 Reolink Doorbell Mounts v1

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

These are the current mounts:

• Horizontal: 5,10,15,20,25,30,35,40,45
• Vertical: 5,10,15,20
• Dual: 5 Vertical, 10 Horizontal
• Dual: 5 Vertical, 15 Horizontal
• Dual: 10 Vertical, 5 Horizontal
• Dual: 10 Vertical, 10 Horizontal
• Dual: 10 Vertical, 15 Horizontal
• Dual: 7 Vertical, 17 Horizontal (special for my use)
• Corner: 90 degrees
• Adjustable balljoint (prototype)
• Stand: 15 Vertical, for horizontal surfaces (prototype)
• ???

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

After seeing that the existing mounts for this doorbell did not cover my needs - which was a dual angle mount that points down and to the side - I had to make one for myself. Only intended to make one, but somehow ended up with now 22 models.

These are a little different then the ones I've seen. There are more of them for one, and they are a little more robust, and the holes for the metal plate has the right angles so the screws will go in perpendicular to the plate. I also see no point in making the tiny knobs for the metal plate (allows you to sand the front for a smaller seam). 

I recommend using M3 screws for the metal plate, not the screws that comes with the kit. No longer than 8mm for the shorter mounts, as it may bottom out.

The screws that go into the wall needs to go in at an angle on the steeper mounts. Having them straight would make the screwdriver hit the frame.

• I've only tested 1 of these, but since it's the back that gets cut, they should all fit.
• Should be printed fully solid in PETG since the doorbell can generate a decent amount of heat, especially if the sun hits it as well.
• I also painted the black bracket black for increased UV resistance, for long-term use.
• The corner mount is printed upside down. It has some bridging for the wall screw holes that needs to be cut out after. It also has a small hole on the side that can be drilled out if you want to run the cable on your wall, instead of drilling into a corner wall.
• There is also a bonus model, which is a printable bell logo that you can stick or glue on the button. Should be printed at 0.2 and needs a color change from 0.4. It's only 0.8mm thick for flexibility.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Balljoint:

The balljoint parts works, but it needs to be tested on a wall by someone. It has a 20 degree tilt in any direction and is tightened by turning the threaded cap. Threads should have grease on them to avoid friction as much as possible. This will make it grab harder on the ball instead. Hopefully the joint is strong enough so the doorbell won't move when the button is pressed.

• All pieces for this should be printed solid, as the forces on the parts would be quite high.
• Should probably not be over 0.2mm layers.
• The 2 balljoint pieces needs to be screwed together through the threaded cap.

You will need a 25mm M4 round head screw and nut for the ball assembly, and x3 7-8mm M3 screws and nuts for the doorbell mounting plate. And then 4 recessed woodscrews for the wall ( not over 7mm diameter head).

• It would be quite easy to steal the doorbell using this mount, so keep that in mind :/
• Cables will be more visible so it's not as clean looking as the other ones.
• Has capped holes so they aren't printed in the air. Needs to be cut after printing.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stand:

The stand is also a prototype and needs testing. I have no use for this one. It's for people that can't or won't drill in a wall, but they can use some sort of horizontal surface nearby, like a railing/counter/shelf/ceiling.

• Has a 15 degree angle.
• Doesn't need to be printed solid
• Can be mounted upside down.
• Stand has internal cables.

You will need longer screws for this as it uses the holes in the metal bracket to mount the plate to the stand (screw > metal plate > mounting plate > stand).

There is a tunnel for wires on the bottom of the stand for surface cabling, or you can drill a hole through the surface it's sitting on.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------