PC4-M10 Drybox Passthrough with cap.

Part of my Plastic House Dry Box set.

This is also composed of the combo Spool Holder / Bearing Assembly and Hygrometer holder all in one which you can find here:

https://www.printables.com/model/789419-plastic-house-dry-box-spool-holder-self-contained-

And my parametric Spool Hub Desiccant Holder which you can find here:

https://www.printables.com/model/789915-easy-open-spool-hub-desiccant-holder-r3

I wasn't planning on making one of these.   

I had hoped to use this one:

https://www.printables.com/model/295764-pc4-drybox-feeder-with-knurled-screw-on-cap-m10m6

As it checked all the boxes of what I needed to do, however I found it took a large amount of XY scaling in slicer would get the PC4M10 to seat at all, and once I'd done that, the knob wouldn't screw on even if I matched the upscale I'd done in Slicer.

Interestingly the back nut from that design (the inside the dry box part) when correctly scaled in x/y DOES screw correctly into the PC4-M10 BSP threats.   So I do use that part.
 

The issue:

The problem with F360 is it doesn't have support for thread clearances natively like you have in other packages.   You have to manually adjust offset the thread faces, which can lead to problems when the part is scaled. as there's 4 individual faces that need to be offset, and they need to be offset in the right order.   If the order is off (or if you miss one of them) when you scale the part binding will happen with the mating thread.

The way to preclude this is use 3 offset face steps after the thread is created:



(NOTE:  My “lower” arrow didn't point to the right face.  It should be pointing to the downward facing face in between the inner and outer faces)

1 - Offset either the upper or lower face
2 - Offset the other of the upper or lower you didn't offset in step 1

3 - Offset BOTH the INNER and OUTER parallel faces in a single step (select both of them).

Offset all four faces by half your desired clearance.   I do this via two user parameters that are built into all my F360 projects by default:

OverallThreadClearance

ThreadClearance = OverallThreadClearance / 2

So when I make threads rather than typing a value in (and forget what it is or even worse forget to match it on the opposing threads, I just set OverallThreadClearance (typically it's 0.2mm) and just use “thread clearance” for all face offsets where threads are concerned and never have to worry about it again.   If I need more clearance after a test print, I just bump up the OverallThreadClearance user parameter and the model just updates with no work on my end needed.   I don't have to find where the thread is in the timeline, and locate all the separate offset face commands to update them, I change one value and it's done.
 

The logo “backing” layer:

I typically will drop my makers logo on most of my parts, mainly because it's dirt simple to do (I have a script for F360 and a plugin I wrote in C# for Rhino that drops them in for me) and I've got a MMU2 (eventually a 3 if they ever ship the upgrade kit) an a 5TH XL.

I do these in the models as while Prusaslicer allows you to import an SVG and plaster it on a face, you have zero control of what it does with the slicing behind the scenes, and depending on the model they can come our pretty poorly due to a number of reasons..

I've been manually cutting in both logos and label text into the models from the beginner of doing 3d printing, so it's  pretty much second nature.  

What you will note is some of the differences.   In the section above, you can see the geometry of both the inner and outer colors of the logo but if you look close you'll see another layer underneath those that is ALSO separate geometry.   This is what I call the “backing” layer and it gets used to print white underneath whatever colors are assigned to the rest of the part for cases where the part may be in black on the logo or text may not have enough contrast to “Pop” to do transmission distance imposed blurring.   Having that layer of white behind the text or logo elements allows it to not get lost.   Just because you can't see it in slicer doesn't mean it's not there, and you don't want to delete it as it'll leave a void in the middle of the model.

IF you don't want the logo visible, simply set it all to use the same extruder.