Thrustmaster Pedals Haptic Mount

WARNING - You need to determine if your printed mount is strong enough based on your setup and equipment. You should not only check that the mount is sturdy enough by your own standards, but you should also check the clearance of the mounted haptics. This should be checked for when the pedals are in the upright position as well as the depressed position. This is especially important with the brake pedal and the rod holding the springs.

NOTE - I have provided a version of the main part of the mount for T3PA and T3PA Pro pedals. I have not tested this version. Whether it works will be highly dependent on how your pedals are setup and what haptics you are mounting to them. The T3PA pedals, especially when inverted, have different angles and clearances than the T-LCM. All instructions below assume the T-LCM is being used.

Description

I wanted to mount some haptics to my T-LCM pedals and decided on the Simagic HPR haptic transducers. I wasn't happy with any of the existing mounts so I made these. While I was at it I decided to expand my mount to provide the following features.

- The ability to mount a variety transducers or motors with adequate clearance.
- The ability to tailor the fit of the mount to the T-LCM pedals.
- The ability to use the existing Thrustmaster pedal wedges and screws.
- The ability to leave the mount attached to the pedals when adjusting the position and angle of the pedal face plates.

I've included plates for 3 different transducers; the Simagic HPR transducers, the Dayton TT25 transducer, and a common 50mm transducer found on Amazon. I've also provided a means to mount other transducers or motors without having to remix the entire mount. I'll discuss each of these options below.

The Mount

All options require the tlcm_mount.stl to be printed. This should be printed strong, but how strong depends a lot on the haptics you are mounting and how you have them set up. I printed mine in PETG with 25% infill, 4 walls, and 4 top/bottom layers. You will need some supports for the bottom lips.

The t3pa_mount.stl can also be used. The main difference is that it does not have the top wall so it can be used on the T3PA pedals. Otherwise it is identical to the tlcm_mount.stl.

NOTE - The t3pa_mount.stl has not been tested on T3PA or T3PA Pro pedals so consider it experimental on those pedals.

Wedges (Optional)

One annoying thing about the T-LCM pedals is that they are not uniformly finished. They appear to have casting and finish variances, even between arms on the same set of pedals. The wedges are meant to help address this. They are purely optional, though, and if your mount is printed strong and is stiff enough, you might not need them.

Plates

Pick the plate for the haptics you are installing. If there isn't one provided for the transducers/motors/haptics you are using, I've provided a blank plate you can try to use. Print it with 100% infill and drill holes for your haptics. Additionally, you can design your own plate. The mounting holes for this mount are M3 and spaced 53mm apart in each direction.

Similar to the main mount, the plates should be printed strong as well. Again, mine were printed in PETG. The Simagic HPR and Dayton TT25 minimal plates will need supports.

Simagic HPR Notes

You will use the 4 flat head M4 screws that come with the Simagic HPR to mount it to the plate. Also, it is optional, but I highly recommend printing either the ring clip or cap clip models to guide the cable.

The Simagic HPR plate will need to be printed with supports. They should be able to be pushed out easily by inserting the M4 screws into the holes from the top.

I've also provided ring and cap models without the clip if you just want to hide the red bands on the Simagic HPR. I recommend installing them after you've secured the plate to the mount as they will make it difficult to screw in the bottom screws.

Dayton TT25 Notes

I've provided two versions of the Dayton TT25 plate. One that is close in design to the mounting ring provided by Dayton and a smaller "minimal" one that prints a little faster and uses about 60% of the filament.

Because of the size of the Dayton TT25, you'll need to attach the plate to the mount before attaching the Dayton TT25 to the mount.

50mm Transducer Notes

The plate for this transducer is pretty simple and will require a single M5 flat head bolt. The length of the bolt is dependent on the specific 50mm transducer used.

Assembly

1. Print the mount first and attach the mount to the pedal arms using a single M4 screw. Attaching the mount with its own screw is optional since mount can simply be secured using the two screws that also attach the face plate but attaching it makes it easier to adjust the pedal face positions later. The mount includes holes that match the holes on the pedal arms. Only one is needed to secure the mount. The length of the M4 screw will depend on which hole you use. Just make sure it doesn't extend too far past the nut in the back or it might interfere with the wedge or plate.

2. After the mount is printed and attached, decide if you want to use a wedge to make the mount more secure. It may not be necessary depending on your setup. If it is, find the correct wedge to use. This may vary for each arm. Pick the tallest wedge that fits flush with the back of the mount. I've provided 5 different wedges with different heights. Each wedge is .5mm taller than the next. When you've found the best one, add a few layers of electrical tape to the top to get a nice tight fit.

3a. Simagic HPR - Attach the Simagic HPR to the plate using the 4 M4 flat head screws that came with the transducer.
3b. Dayton TT25 - Do not attach the Dayton TT25 to the plate yet.
3c. 50mm Transducer - Attach the 50mm transducer to the plate using the M5 flat head screw.

4. Attach the plate to the mount using 4 M3x20 cap head screws. If using a wedge, it should go between the plate and the mount. It will be secured by the same screws used to secure the plate to the mount. Note that the holes in the mount are tight by design. You may want to pre-thread them by running an M3 screw through them before mounting the plate.

5a. Simagic HPR - If using the ring or cap, slide them on now. If using the cable clip versions, the clip can optionally be secured using a M3x4 cap head screw. The screw is optional, and if used, does not need to be tight. If you screw it in too far it might scratch the HPR finish.
5b. Dayton TT25 - Attach the Dayton TT25 to the mount using 6 M3x10 cap head screws.

Settings

For the most part, the mount only nees to be strong enough so that it doesn't dampen the vibration from the haptics. I printed mine with a modified PETG with 25% infill and 4 walls and top/bottom layers. That seems to work fine. I imagine any filament type will work as long as it is printed stiff enough and can hold the M3 screws.