V3 SE Fly ADXL345 Nozzle Mount

The weird thing about something like this is that each persons nozzle will likely be on slightly different angles. To get the best angle possible for mine, I used the flat bed surface on the front of the printer + the “leveler” on my phones camera (Gcam app) to take a picture that shows as perfectly front + 90 degree angled and guessed.

I included the .step file, since everyone's nozzle will likely be different. You can then use the photo you take while rotating it in the cad software to have the hexagon shape as closely identical to how it is on your hotend. It doesn't take a lot of effort to get something 1-3 degrees from perfect.

I used 3mm X 12mm bolts, but you can edit it to use whatever you want. Funnily, I got about 4-5 tests out of this before the threads stripped and required a not. Not a big inconvenience at all. Optimization of printer calibration often requires taking things apart, like the hotend ducts.

I know I am not amazing at design, so there were surely easier ways to do things. Someone else is free to improve upon that.

Important Note: You should try to use this while your hotend heatsink fan + duct fan is running. You want everything that produces vibrations that would be running during a print, to be running during the input_shaping tests and at the same speeds. So if that means turning your hotend to 25C just to have the fan going, then do it. Same with the most commonly used (or highest?) hotend duct fan speed.

Tldr : 3mm X 12mm bolt + nut. Turn on your fans.