ICOM IC-7100 in Dewalt TStak box

     My Dewalt Tstak box for an IC-7100 that contains its power supply, tuner (MFJ-939i), the radio, as well as cooling fans and a USB power supply (Anker 6 port). I designed this so I could still plug in my laptop and both antennas and I can move the radio control faceplate wherever is convenient. I also have a TStak single drawer beneath where I keep my power supply cable, USB cables, and wire antenna. I am including the FreeCAD files for anyone who wants to modify to suit their needs. The unit was designed to print in multiple parts on my Voron 350 by using the slicer to do the cut. Dimensions for the largest part (the top) are 413mm x 294 mm. It should be possible to print on any 300x300 printer as designed.

     BOM as I built it so I know the parts fit (does not include cabling or wiring). This was done from my Amazon order history and from memory, so it may not be perfect but it does hit the major things and should fill all the holes in the top. I do recommend using coax with 90 degree connectors to make things fit better:

Assorted M3 screws for attaching COAX pass throughs, etc. I don't remember the lengths.

Leftover M3 heat inserts for the screw holes on for the mini-USB connector and the coax passthroughs.

ruthex M5 Threaded Inserts - 50 Pieces RX-M5x9.5 Brass Heat Set Insert for Plastic Parts - Metric knurled Nuts - Insert by Heat into 3D Printing Components: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

M5 x 16mm Stainless Phillips Pan Washer Head PWH Machine Screws, Stainless Steel 304 (18-8), Full Thread, Coarse Thread UNC, Pack of 50: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: WSZJINB 32Ft x 1In Adjustable Cable Straps with Buckles, Free Cut Length, Black Reusable Fastening Cable Ties, Hook and Loop Securing Strap for Cable Tidy, Wire Management, Cord Organiser : Electronics - I'm not super impressed with this but it works. Any velcro strapping should be acceptable.

Amazon.com: ANEXT, 120mm USB Computer Fan Black, 120mm Fan, Silent Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling, 2 in 1 Packs Black : Electronics

Amazon.com: DHT Electronics 2PCS RF coaxial Coax Adapter UHF Female to Female SO-239 SO239 with Panel : Electronics

Amazon.com: BATIGE Dual Ports Square USB 3.0 Panel Flush Mount Extension Cable with Buckle for Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Dashboard 1ft : Electronics - Also the multiport V USB power supply of your choice. I am currently using 3 ports - two for the USB power on the top panel to charge phones, run personal fans, etc and 1 for the push/pull fans on top that keep the internals cool.

Amazon.com: Kework 0.3 Meter Mini USB Extension Cable, 90 Degree Upward Angle Mini USB 5 Pin Male to Mini USB Female Screw Mount Extender Cable (Up-Mini USB) : Electronics - Allows PC to 7100 data transfer

Printing setup- I used PETG on a 0.6mm nozzle. For the top and mic holder no supports were needed. For the bottom I printed on what would be the short side when fully assembled and only used supports for the feet.

Assembly- Install the M5 heat set inserts into the top side of the bottom and the mic holder. Install the M3 heat inserts for the coax pass throughs and the mini-usb cable. The M5 heat set insert holes at the bottom of the basket were not used as I got tired of trying to do a template that fit well enough to get the holes drilled perfectly. Gravity holds the basket in just fine.

Basket - Place all of your electronics in first. To clear where the control faceplate sits the smallest component needs to be at the front. I made sure that I had one velcro strap attaching each side of the bottom to each component (radio, power supply, and tuner). Do your wiring. 

Top - I have the left fan pushing air into the box and the right fan pulling air out. The different orientations are why there's an extra little cutout for wiring on the top where one of the fan holes is.  Screw the mic holder to the top to make the top one piece.

Wire - Connect everything up. I did my coax first since to give my fingers as much room as possible for the screw on connections. I have both the USB power supply and the radio power supply being turned on/off at my switch.

Attach the top - 6 5 screws hold the top to the basket.

Install the basket into the Tstak box. It's a tight fit and you may need to push on a corner here or there. It's not so tight you can't remove it if needed.

FreeCAD notes:

I used the honeycomb add on and I think you'll need it if you want to work with the file without errors because the basket gets rerendered each time as I understand how that add on works. You're welcome to try without the add on.

Most (maybe even all) of the holes in the top can be moved by adjusting their attachment points rather than going into sketches.

Possible upcoming upgrades:

V1.1 I'm working on a solderless panadapter/waterfall display mod using an antenna switch and SDR adapter for my laptop. Parts aren't supposed to get here for a month and a half though so this mod won't be soon if it happens. For that mod I may add an HDMI pass through for the top plate and/or VESA mount for the inside lid of the box. Since the SDR software will be running on my laptop I may not bother. I'll have to see how everything fits together best when the radio mod is complete and if the antenna switching box fits in the basket.