31.08.2024 Update
- Some cosmetic changes, updated the STL's and added pictures.
- Added Stealthburner backplate. Made for original Stealthburner cad from Voron Github and the dock I found on TapChanger Github in the file "Tapchanger-All.step" found here:
https://github.com/viesturz/tapchanger/tree/main/Tapchanger/CAD
If it's not what it's should be, the CAD files are upp and the files can be modified.
The backplate is 2.3mm ticker to accomodate the extruder motorplate.
The backplate is split in two parts( a and b in STL files), for better printing. The parts should be screwed and glued togheter before adding the top heat inserts.
- Added STEP file for all KlickyChanger files.

This is a Remix from Stealthchanger.

I made it for my Miniburner XL toolhead: https://www.printables.com/model/977401

but the backplate can be modified for whatever toolhead you want.
I wanted a toolchanger without TAP. So I made this project to use Klicky probe. Teoretic it can be modifiet for whatever probe you want. The X endstop is on the shuttle, exact like on the original Voron Carriage. The shuttle and the backplate toghether are modifiet to be at the same ticknes as the original Voron carriage. It uses pogo pins for making contact between shuttle and backplate.
The problem i have is that id does not work with the toolchanger software from TapChanger creator "viesturz". The software uses the Z enstop for knowing what tool is active, so because klicky probe endstop stays on his support no tool can be made active. And the klicky routines for docking and undocking are no longer trigerred when a homing is called.
So i post this here for whoever wants to try to do some coding, couse im not good at it.
For now i have on my printer the shuttle and backplate mounted instead of classic voron carriage and its all ok. Its easier to just lift the toolhead from the shuttle and change a nozzle.... :)

Because its all so tight the shuttle wiring its done like in the pictures. I just superglued the wires on the part as shown in pictures. The pogo pins are also glued in place.

You need:

-This pogo pins: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BKPY29V7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

-4x 4x60mm steel rods.
-1x 50x10x0,4mm spring steel strip for the silicon pad, to keep the nozzle from oozing when parked
-some silicon for molding the silicon pad. i use this and its amazing : https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01MZ7EO1V?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

-two heat inserts for the backplate.(the toolhead is mounted whit 4 screws. the upper screws are screwed direct in the printed part, the lower screws are screwed in the heat inserts. use 4x M3x8 screws)

-two heat inserts for the dock, to hold the spring steel strip with the silicon pad
-n52 magnets

I use this bushings(4x6x6): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005335880614.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.41.77621802dEieUK

and this pins(M4x12mm): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004268781276.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.47.77621802dEieUK

-and other screws

Printing: Use Voron specs and materials. I used 25% infill.
I used for the most part build-in supports. You should adjust the bridging angle so the bridges take advantage of supports. Buid-in supports are shown in the pictures in yellow color on the printed parts.

if I forgot something, please say.
There are allot of pictures to guide you, but please ask your questions.

Tagi

toolchanger trident voron toolhead