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Balance the weight out with two screws! Recommend printing on the oval face (lying down) for strength, and increasing perimeter count. Installation instructions to get both screws in for both sides: place the two sides on the extreme ends…
The grip on the echo is NOT tight so it can freely rotate within the mount - great for you to cable manage! There is also a small slot between the top clip and the bottom of the shelf clamp, which you can use to wind the cables. The shelf…
Used to offset your faceplate and the wall mount or ceiling mount box, giving you more depth and therefore volume to fit electronics or wires inside. My original use case was to change a switch to a smart switch with Tuya zigbee switch,…
Some models created with this as the base: https://www.printables.com/model/1009910-g3-flex-uk-faceplate-ceiling-mount https://www.printables.com/model/883640-g4-g3-instant-ceiling-uk-outlet-plate…
Casing for electronics: m5stack Atom Lite Battery Pack RFID module (or RFID2, they are the same size physically) Uses m3 heat inserts to keep the top and bottom secure. Lid is recommended to be printed upside-down (such that your heatbed…
My Das Keyboard 4 Professional for Mac had a volume knob which got sticky along the sides over time, eventually starting to leave a sticky, black residue on my fingers. The minute clearance against the wall of the keyboard enclosure meant…
Instead of an enclosure, I ordered a plexiglass box with the exception of 1 face, to be used as a “cover” for my mk3s on an Ikea LACK table. However, I quickly realised I had trouble taking the box off without sliding it to the side - and…
Needed a ceiling mount but the original's screw points were too far apart. This one makes it the same width as a UK power box, but also completely covers that UK power box faceplate.
Allows you to mount over a standard EU or some parts of SEA faceplate.
Print back-down with supports for the spacing for the Clipsal switches. If you do not need that spacing, fill with a positive box sized to match.
This is to be used as the base for other smart switch mounts.
Traced this out into an SVG and then scaled it in PrusaSlicer to match the wooden toy elephant that was accidentally broken. Spot the imposter :)
The original had clips that are hard to print durably, so this one removes it in favour of you installing the original base plate on your own - probably with tape or screw it right in.
I snagged a Fornuftig at a local Ikea sale event for the same price as an Uppatvind with the intention of using it as positive air intake for my networking rack (reduce dust buildup from within the rack). The vent of the Fornuftig,…
Hide your Motion Sensor inside a standard single-gang SG/MY/UK box, with the main body of the sensor inside. I didn't like the pill-shape and how it sticks out, and I also found the sensor to be over-sensitive to a certain angle. Hiding…
The original model was a straight base but my T5 LED Bar has the base of the bar with a +1mm on each side on which the clamp-clips will hold the bar in an upside-down mount. This variation adds that 1mm lip to allow a snug fit. Also…
My first print of the original was functional, but I didn't have screws long enough that would hold the bottom of the controller box in place. Furthermore, the M2.5 screws I had on hand were expanding the plastic on the sides, which…
My existing ceiling had these single-gang power points which I wanted to convert to G3 Flex points. Instead of cutting out new holes, I've designed these faceplate replacements to hold the G3 Flex upside-down. The notch at the bottom,…
As per title, just the same cover but without the Prusa inscription
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