xBuddy cooling chimney

All of my models are made in Tinkercad. I created this cooling chimney because I have only found models with both intake and exhaust at the bottom where you have to drill holes in the enclosure. Since hot air rises I made this model with exhaust on top. Even though I will proberbly not win a designaward I am still very happy with the result. I have printed PETG and ASA prints lasting over 24 hours. The highest temperature I have registered was 37 ℃ (coolingfan temperature sensor). 

There are two 40X40X20 fan slots (intake and exhaust) in the cooling system. 

I have taken use of @teslapunk “Flexible segmented vacuum hose 40mm” parts (https://www.printables.com/model/107125-flexible-segmented-vacuum-hose-40mm-fits-dn40-pipe ) in order to ensure that the printer is somewhat moveable/flexible after installation. Between part 1 and 2 I modified his “40mm nozzle and DN40 connector” because the original parts where too long (part 10 and 11).

All modified parts of the cooling system are separated to two other projects on my profile in order to separate which are my own and others creations and due to different licences.

My remixed versions of @teslapunk's models that fit my cooling chimney can be found here:

 https://www.printables.com/model/1147874-modified-parts-from-teslapunk-flexible-segmented-v.

You also need to download the unmodified model “link” from his profile: https://www.printables.com/model/107125-flexible-segmented-vacuum-hose-40mm-fits-dn40-pipe/files#preview.file.arO8c. You need to print it three times. Two are fitted between part 10 and 11. The last one is fitted on top.

All other remixed parts for the cooling chimney (from @Prusa Research and @Vincent) can be found here: https://www.printables.com/model/1147885-modified-parts-from-prusa-research-and-vincent-for.

PARTLIST:

1: This part consists of 4 parts: 1a - intake box, 1b - intake fan segment, 1c - large intake grill, 1d - small intake grill. 

The intakebox is fastend to the PSU backplate with sqarenut and a regular m3 nut and screws. The intake fan segment has to be screwed to the intake box afterwards. Finally the original handle is to be screwed back in place. It also helps to hold the intake in place. 

There is a slot for a 40X40X20mm fan in part 1. Part 12 is the fancover on top of the fan. You also need a part 12 for the exhaust fan in part 9 (that’s why there are two identical models in part 12).

2: Cool air to xbuddy segment: I wanted to seal of the airflow as much as possible. You will have to remove the xbuddy cables at the bottom in order to place the smaller part first. The thermometer sensor for the xbuddy fits in the “panicpower cable hole” and is fitted in the top of the xbuddy box. I used zipties for this task. 

• The “wings” in the xbuddy segment are extremely brittle. Be careful when removing supports!
• Before installing part 2 you need to install my modified version (14) of Vincent’s Heatbed Cable Cover (https://www.printables.com/model/536937-prusa-i3-mk4-and-mk4s-heatbed-cable-cover-60-degre) because the NFC has to be moved up in order to make room for the airflow below.

3: xbuddy cover: I have tried to create this part to ensure good airflow while being extremely limited due to the lack of space. There is also room for a X-axis cable holder as you can see in the photos. 

After many testprints and modifications this model became to complex for Tinkercad. I have tried to simplify it in Fusion 360. I was unable to accomplish this task without sacrificing important details. I have included an image (“to do list”) with 3 improvements I would have made if I could. I am however using this model and satisfied with the result. 

There is also a small lid in the xbuddy cover (part 4) where the temperature sensor is located. There are two versions in the file. I glued this shut with T-7000 glue.

5: xbuddy chimney 1: This part is screwed to the printers frame. The “flap” version can be printed if you don’t have a MMU3. The other one is for MMU3 owners. The flap will probably stick out due to the MMU3 cable.

6: xbuddy chimney 2: I glued this part to part 5 with T-7000 glue. This is not necessary because part 7 is screwed to the printers frame. If you have a MMU3 there is an exithole for the cable.

7: This chimney segment (xbuddy chimney 3) is infused to Prusa Research’s “z-top-left-R3” model (https://www.printables.com/model/451500-mk4smk39s-printable-parts/files#preview.file.Y8Ysc). It replaces the original part.

Part 15 (xbuddy chimney 4 ) and 8 (chimney snail) are to be glued together to part 7. I used T-7000 glue.

9: This is the exhaust. It is a modified version of @Prusa Research “Transport handle for Original Prusa Enclosure” (https://www.printables.com/model/252904-transport-handle-for-original-prusa-enclosure). There is an integrated fanslot for a 40X40X20 fan. You use one of the two covers (12) to close it of. I have also made a lid for the exhaust. I made this mostly to make support removal easier. I glued this lid to the exhaust. If you fasten the top screw through the enclosureframe into the exhaust it stays in place without the screws that hold both the exhaust and actrylic glass in place.

Tinkercad also deemed this part to be to complex. I have found out that I forgot to add the hole for the screw in the middle. I carefully drilled this hole before installation.

There is also a “x buddy exhaust spacer” to download. This part can be glued to part 9 if you want to fasten the acrylic glass on the outside of the frame in order to make access from the side easier.

Electronic components I used:

Fans: Noctua NF-A4x20 PWM, 12V, 4 pin (Noctua fans have “rubber corner stickers” on them. This makes them slightly thicker than 20mm. If these fans are used you might have to peel them off, unless you decide to remix the parts where you make the fan slots thicker.)

Temperature control speed controller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007267153343.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.5f701802KZYIoQ (these have a standard setting where they activate the fans at 30C and turn them of at 20C. They move faster when the temp. goes up. In the “ASA picture” I ran the fans at full speed for a stress test. These values are easy to change.)

I have made (and use) a cover for these controllers, but they don’t  fit as well as they should. I glued the controllers in place with a gluegun on the backside and used sharp knife in order to make the holes for the controllers displays and buttons fit better. I drilled holes for the indicator lights on top. I have included this (“uncomplete”) controller cover in this project, despite the fact that it is not part of the cooling system. I glued two 5 port wire connector terminals on the left side for + and - (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006962860090.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.112.42de18025SyXyB).

12V 5A PSU: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007198167348.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.125.5f701802KZYIoQ (I did not want to connect anything else to the printer 24V PSU. This PSU is cheap fairly well built.)

Green 12V indicator lights: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005012176795.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.143.5f701802KZYIoQ (not necessary, but you can easily see if the fans are active. I soldered them on the +/- DC 12V cables of the temperature control speed controller. I left the yellow cable (PG) unconnected.)