SUNCHASR - ADJUSTABLE SPIROGRAPHIC ESPRESSO WDT (58mm)

Recently upgraded my original 2023 design with ball bearings, bolder/stiffer needles, “glide rings” for additional smoothness, and visual tastefulness.

Printed parts: 

• QTY. 1 all parts unless listed below
• QTY. 2 ‘SUNCHASR-GLIDERING’
• QTY. 11 ‘SUNCHASR-NEEDLE’ 

Settings:

• Recommend 0.4mm nozzle, +4 wall thickness, at least 30% infill density (gyroid pattern), 0.2mm layers unless noted otherwise.
• See photos for recommended orientations – use supports on ‘SUNCHASR1’, ‘SUNCHASR3’, and all gears.
• Tree supports optional on threaded parts – if used, I suggest increasing support/object XY distance for clean removal.
• Recommend 0.12mm layers for glide rings and use a smooth/non-textured build plate.
• I used 0.4mm nozzle on gears, but 0.2mm nozzle may improve quality and overall smoothness. 

In addition to the 3D-printed parts, you will need: 

• QTY. 1 espresso machine having a 58mm portafilter basket. 
  • I use a Diletta Mio.
• QTY. 4 ball bearings (693ZZ - 3mm ID x 8mm OD x 4mm W). 
  • https://a.co/d/1KRgVZ0 
• QTY. 4 machine screws (M3 x 16mm L). 
• QTY. 11 3D printer nozzle cleaning needles or equivalent. 
  • Mine are 0.8mm diameter, 85mm total length, 35mm shank length, 1.75mm shank diameter.
  • https://a.co/d/ikguPFK
• QTY. 1 tube of gel superglue/CA. 
  • I use Loctite brand.

Assembly: 

• For needles, first cut off ball-end of shanks to about 56mm total length (doesn’t have to be exact). 
  • Always take caution when handling the needles, as they are sharp.
• Fit test a needle into a ‘SUNCHASR-NEEDLE’ part and make a mental note of how much shank is exposed, then apply some super glue to the needle shank below the “line” you observed and re-insert into the part.
  • To ensure glue is fully distributed, you can spin the needles and work them in and out briefly.
  • Make sure the needles are fully seated and allow glue to cure.
• Insert ball bearings into gears. 
• Insert machine screws thru gears and bearings, then drive them into the corresponding holes in ‘SUNCHASR1’.
  • Carefully apply downward pressure while turning until the screw bites into the plastic. 
  • Do not overtighten – gears should have almost no play but spin freely.
  • Reference photos for correct gear layout. 
• Stack both glide rings inside ‘SUNCHASR1’. 
• Set the ‘SUNCHASR2’ inside ‘SUNCHASR1’ and check gear operation. 
  • Tighten/loosen screws, if necessary, until satisfied with smoothness. 
• Thread the ‘SUNCHASR-LOCKRING’ onto the ‘SUNCHASR2’, then thread on the ‘SUNCHASR3’.
  • Threads may need ran all the way in and back out a few times to break in – can apply a small amount of isopropyl alcohol to temporarily lubricate threads and break in faster.
  • If threads still feel too tight or get stuck at some spots, inspect threads for “strings” or other defects and remove with a hobby knife. Too many defects may require reprinting with different settings. 
  • I noticed on mine that the lock ring worked better if flipped a certain way. 
• Once glued needles are fully cured, glue them into the gears and fixed needle hole on ‘SUNCHASR1’. 
• Allow glue to fully cure – done.