AV-lite controller box

NOTE:  If you need any modifications (like custom holes for specific vesc etc) just hit me up on Discord and i'll try to make it work.

All included folders contain .step. Download all and extract. Put the files that you need in a seperate folder and work from there not to mix things up. Had to go this route to make this as versatile as possible for user's needs. The included .stl is just meant for the 3d viewer on this page. 

Modify or mix at will. Do not use for commercial purposes and credit to where it belongs. Reach out with questions here or via Discord: https://discord.gg/AgA8zb85Ja

Enjoy!

What is it?

Semi-printed controller box for your VESC XR platform and it's GOOD! I designed it for myself out of need for a user friendly and robust enclosure like the original AV box, but having one of those CNC-ed is massive $$$ so this one has to substitute for it. 

The main body is to be printed, the bottom plate has to be CNC-ed. Lid and LED heatsink are optional CNC, print, lasercut, composite laminate etc.

This model is for builders having some experience since it involves precise printing, use of many inserts etc. 

Main features: 

As usual the box lid can be removed without removing it from the rails. Box bolts onto rails with proper threads. Good heatsinking and large patch to rails. Use of cableglands or HIGO (superflux) plug, integrated counternuts for all add-on, GX16 or XLR, variety of supported VESC's ( Ennoid MK8/MK8pro, Spintend UBOX 150A/85v, JF6/thor, Lfoc3.1/4, redesign holes for your needs...), internal height from 28 to 32 mm. Room for add-ons such as 2s2p 21700 split pack using dedicated enclosure or own design.

The price of CNC bottom plate is at JLC around Eur 55 for Alu6061, 0.1mm tolerance, beadblasted, anodized and threaded (ex shipping/VAT), lid around Eur 25, LED heatsink around Eur 35.

Limitations:

XR frame only. Not all VESCS will fit. I did not bother checking Tronic X12 (likely to fit) or larger Spintend ones as i will never use them.

IMPORTANT!! For the bottom frame i use minimum 2.5mm thread size. I dont like 2mm that's why. This means that for mounting Ubox or older versions of Ennoid you will need to increase the holes of their enclosures to 2.5mm!!! This is not hard to do.

Badger bumper will not fit as i removed the "gap" the metal brackets need. Stock XR bumpers will fit when the tabs that are usually broken anyway are removed. Basicly just use BANG'S and you'll be fine.

When using the 30mm version of the CNC bottom you will need to shave off  2mm height of an area of the (BANG) bumper. A file that can be used as a jig of the exact location is included (30mm cut template).

How it works

1- Determine clearly which files you need! Additionally determine if you want to CNC or DIY the other parts such as:

Box lid: There are 3 versions depending on the inside room you need. CNC OR.....Print from TOUGH material (own risk, just like everything else here;) OR....You can have the box lid cut or lasercut (up to 4mm thick, .dxf included ). For this i have added "AVL main...Flatcut" box versions since the standard lids fall into the printed body with counterbore rings.

LED heatsink: 2 versions (standard or ribbed) depending on heatsinking needs or just the bling. CNC or....You can print the part using tough/stiff filament if your led strip does not need heat dissipation, OR.....alternatively use 1 or 2mm thick 25x25mm alu T-profile available at hardware stores. You will have to use a Dremel+drill or smilar tolls to modify the T profile into fitment. Shorten the bottom leg that goes into the enclosure to 15mm, narrow that one down to 134mm symmetrical. Machine the rest conform the template included (AVL led heatsink neoprene gasket)

LED window: No way around it.... you will need to cut or lasercut a 1-1.5mm thick acrylic window identical to this https://www.printables.com/model/704997-av-box-window-and-sticker-template-files and apply it using a permanent or non permanent adhesive. Recommended 3m VHB, 0.5mm thick.

2- Print the main body version you need (XLR, GX16, Flatcut or one of any without the LED housing if LED is not your thing. Any CNC bottom plate version fits any printed main body. Install the heatset inserts. Install your chargeport and button counternuts, confirm the port and button can be/are installed without issues. 

3- Order or CNC the bottom plate of your choice, use the image for the threads. There are 4 versions depending on the inner box height you need. The 30mm ones give the most inside room for your VESC but requires 2mm material removed from your bumper floor (file: AVL CNC bottom 30mm cut template). 

4- Merge the 2 parts above: Fill the bottom gasket area of your print with silicone. Press the CNC part into it confirming all is flush. There is a built in tolerance so over half of the silicone will remain inside as gasket. Rest will be pushed out needing a little cleanup.  Bolt 2 parts together with the M3 screws and let the silicone cure.

5- Use a 3mm o-ring as main lid gasket or print it ( AVL Main lid gasket). Use 1mm neoprene for sealing the LED heatsink (applied on heatsink side. File: AVL led heatsink neoprene gasket).

6- Use splashcap if it's your thing..that's basicly all, rest is as usual. 

Notify me if anything needs a change.