Adjustable Build Plate Leveler

This is a remix of @DSlimmer_3633096's great design for helping to level the sides of the bed between the screws.  

I couldn't get a clean print of the collar, but in testing out the design, I could see that it definitely addressed the issue, and I thought that I could simply eliminate the collar altogether.  While I was at it, I also made some changes to the wedge, and also tinkered with the hole that the screw passed through, and negated the need for a tap.  The screw should thread cleanly into the hole, and either his recommended screw size, or the metric equivalent will work perfectly fine.  

The hole now supports the screw more fully, and the threads allow the screw to move freely.  You DO need to pay attention to the fact that the screw can be completely removed, as the collar seemed to eliminate that issue, and now that it's missing...well...

You'll need to check out his design page for the recommended springs, and his recommended screw size is there as well.  I have tons of metric screws around (as many of you likely do as well).  It should be an M3x20 that will work, but pay attention as you're putting it in.  If it's difficult to screw in, then I got the size wrong - apologies in advance.  The screw hole itself is designed to allow entry of the screw, cutting its own threads easily as it's turned into the hole.  If it's not going in easy, the screw's too big.  TWSS

I redesigned the wedge piece with a shallow depression that the screw should now press against, and I added another shallow depression in the base to capture the other end of the spring, keeping it in position.  Now, turning the screw pushed against the wedge, compressing the spring, and unscrewing it simply allows the spring to push the wedge back, and lowers the top.  The pics above should show the position of the screw and where it fits in, and the spring is also shown, inserted in the wedge, and the hole it will fit into on the back of the base portion.

Regarding the wedge piece, the orientation options are shown in the green/gold side by side pic.  The green model is face down (with the UP text against the build plate), the gold is face up.  The wedge text indicating what side should face up is .20mm deep, so it's not enough to hang on anything.  I preferred to print that face against the build plate, so you get the result shown in my pic, as well as a smooth top surface of the finished part.  If you print it in the text-up orientation (like it will sit in the base) the text will be a 1-layer-deep inset, which may or may not catch on something.  If you print it in that orientation, a light sanding should take care of anything that may catch. 

There's no way to print the base itself without supports.  Since the wedge needs to slide forward and back, I printed it in exactly the position shown in the grey colored model, with supports under the "box", as that won't ever be seen on this functional print.  If your bridging settings aren't the best, you can always sand that after removing the supports, and this will work perfectly fine for you. That's exactly what I had to do with my first test print of this, so I speak from experience on sanding being an acceptable solution for this case.

One final thing, if you can, paint the seam somewhere other than the little gap that the lid slips into, and the corresponding piece of the top.  I also printed this with the precise walls setting in Orca, and I had no issues with the top slotting in there perfectly and moving up and down.  I've also added a pic showing how I painted the seams for the best performance on my own print, including a seam blocker, since Orca seemed to insist a seam should go there.

One final note - the knurled knobs are not included here.  If you want those, @DSlimmer_3633096 has those for his original design.  I printed my example exactly as the author intended originally, including the knob.  For mine, I chose a socket head cap screw (the black screw in the pic above, with the original design).  That type of screw gives enough surface to turn it with your fingers, with just enough of an issue turning it, that it makes it difficult to turn TOO much without using tools, or really wrenching on the screw.  IF you go the route of using the knobs, I don't know what type of metric screw is best to use, and if you use the recommended screw, it will need to be glued into place for best performance.