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macro bellows

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macro bellows with belt drive for fine tuning magnification.

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License
GNU General Public License v3.0

universal macro bellows, lens and body mounts can be easily swapped out. belt drive for fine tuning magnification .

currently supports ef and ef-s body's and fd lenses. mounts can be easily swapped out, if you want to use a different lens or body you'll have to make your own (just find a lens/body cap model and combine it with a mesh from this model). step files included.

some samples:

(photos taken of various drosera species, shot on a canon 70d, hansa 105 f/2.8 bellows fully extended(roughly 30cm between lens and sensor))

parts needed:

bearings

bearing 8x16x5 (x4)
bearing 5x16x5 (x2)
bearing LM8UU

heatset insert

m3x5x4 (you need a lot, just get the cheapest you can find)

screws (din 912/ iso 4762)

m3x25
m3x16
m3x12
m3x8

screws (iso 10642)

m3x6

setscrew

m4x5

other

tr8x8 leadscrew (should be 42mm longer that the 8mm rods, i used a 292mm leadscrew)
tr8x8 spindle
8mm rod (i used 250mm rods, you could use longer or shorter rods)(x2)
5mm D-cut shaft 30mm
square tube 15x15mm (i used alluminium but steel or wood should also work)(should be 40mm longer than the 8mm rods, i used 290mm alluminium tube)

pulleys

6mm gt2-60t-8mm bore (height 16mm)
6mm gt2-20t-5mm bore (height 16mm)

belt loop

6mm-gt2-188t

optional parts

5x10x1 shim ring (printed part available)
heatset insert 1/4"-20x12.7
tripod screw

bellows

some thick paper or cardboard
some light tight fabric (black)/vinyl foil/ducttape
some glue (for glueing the fabric)

how to make bellows.

the total length of your unfolded bellows should be roughly 1.6x the length of the 8mm rods. i used 250mm rods so the total length of my bellows ended up being close to 400mm. 

follow this tutorial on how to make bellows:

and use these dimensions:

print settings:

0.2 layer height
0.4 line width
4 walls
5 top/bottom layers.
support: yes, some parts need some minimal support material, use your own best judgement :)

you'll probably need to change the part orientation in your slicer. 

material: pla should be fine for most parts, lens/body mounts can be a bit fragile so use something with good layer adhesion, i printed mine in abs but petg would probably work better.

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