COPY CAT | Modular Target Stand

COPYCAT – Modular IPSC Target Stand / USPSA Wall System

I've been working on this design for a while now, and after quite a few iterations, this is the first version I've felt comfortable uploading and sharing.

The idea was to make a simple, modular system that uses inexpensive 1" × 2" furring strips to build IPSC/USPSA target stands, walls, and other range props without needing to build a completely different frame every time.

A single set of COPYCAT connectors makes one target stand. With a couple of sets, you can build larger USPSA walls using orange construction netting. Because of the orientation of the slots on the connectors, you can also experiment with different configurations, including 90-degree pockets, partial walls, and other stage props.

Hardware

The uploaded version uses heat-set threaded inserts and wing-style screws with plastic handles. I've been using the following McMaster-Carr parts:

• McMaster-Carr 91185A921

• McMaster-Carr 93365A160

Each set requires:

• 6 wing-style screws

• 6 heat-set inserts

Make sure to purchase accordingly if you're printing multiple sets.

You're obviously welcome to use cheaper alternatives. I've even made a version myself where I closed the holes intended for the heat-set inserts and just used deck screws instead. The McMaster hardware is what I've been using, but it's certainly not the only way to assemble these.

Wood and assembly

These are designed around standard 1" × 2" × 8' furring strips from Home Depot.

I usually line up a bunch of 8-foot strips and cut 36" off each one. This makes it pretty easy to get everything cut at once without having to measure each individual piece.

For a standard target stand:

• 60" sections: The remaining length of each 8' strip becomes a vertical upright.

• 36" sections: These become the feet.

• 18" sections: Cut a couple of the 36" pieces in half to make the horizontal crossbar pieces.

Once everything is cut, the wood slides into the connectors and is secured using the wing screws.

For the actual targets, I generally just use staples or clips to attach them to the uprights.

Note: These strips can really suck rocks, the quality is terrible. Its why the design uses larger slots with the guide “bumps”. It allows for even the crappiest most out-of-spec boards to be used. You can see this in my examples, the uprights are curved 15 degrees and there is significant chipping on the side. Ultimately doesn't matter (theyll probably be shot to pieces) but worth noting.

A few notes

Print settings are simple: I've been using 4 walls 35% infill, gyroid or triangles. I think you could get away with even less but these feel very robust and haven't had issues yet. 

This is still a project I'm actively working on, and I'm sure there will be improvements and additional versions as I continue using it.

The goal has always been to make something inexpensive and modular enough to copy…cat any static range prop I need. With amazon filament bulk sales I had it under 10 bucks per set. 

If you end up printing a set or come up with an interesting configuration, I'd love to see it!