HAVN BF 360 Desk Mount

Description

As the name implies, this is a DIY desk mount for a HAVN BF 360 case. I didn't fancy any of the existing mounts out there, they're just not very pretty to look at.  It can work for other cases too, up to ~250 mm wide.

I included a STEP file that you can modify if you want a better fit for a case with other dimensions.

There's ~10 cm between the top of the case and the underside of the desk, so you can easily access the USB ports and power button. You could make the tubes longer or shorter if you want more or less spacing.

Parts

Printed

• 2xBottom.stl is the two large bottom pieces. Will just exactly fit a CORE One (250x220mm) be if rotated at the right angle. 

• 4xTop.stl is the two top pieces, but split in two so they fit on the bed.

• 4xTopConnector.stl are used to connect the Top pieces. Gently push them in with a hammer or screwdriver handle.

• Jig_TableHoles.stl is an jig/aid for marking/pre-drilling holes in the desk.

• Jig_TubeHoles.stl is a jig/aid for drilling holes through the copper tubes.

Other

Other than the printed parts you will need Ø15 mm copper tubes and some screws. I used chrome-plated copper, but you can also use plain copper instead if you prefer that look. You can of course also use steel instead, or maybe unobtainium if you prefer that!

• 4x Ø15 mm x 621 mm copper tube, one for each corner

• 1x Ø15 mm x 400 mm copper tube, to connect the two halves at the bottom

• 10x 4.0 x 20 mm round-head wooden screws to secure the tubing to the printed parts. Screw head up to Ø8 mm.

That's just under 3 meter tubing in total. I bought 2x 2 m copper tubing at Biltema for 45€, so if you're in Scandinavia, you can get it there, and the screws too. 

Important! The length of the screws used to secure the printed top parts under the desk depend on how thick your desk is. Make sure you get the numbers right so you don't end up with the screws sticking out on the topside of the desk! If you pre-drill, use tape on the drill to mark the appropriate depth.
Up to Ø5.0 mm screws will fit the printed part and Ø10 mm for the screw heads. 

The first 13 mm of the screws sit inside the printed parts, so for my 23 mm desk I used 5.0 x 30 mm round-head screws. With that, I get 30 mm - 13 mm = 17 mm of the screws secured into the desk and a comfortable ~6 mm before they would go all the way through the desk.

The printed top parts has 8 holes for the front and 8 for the rear, quite likely overkill, but if your desk isn't very thick it allows you to use more screws to secure it. Better safe than sorry.
Always use the two outermost screw holes closest to the copper tubes!

Printing Instructions

See slicer image for print orientation. No supports are required.

I used these settings on my CORE One:

• Prusament Galaxy Black PETG

• 0.20 mm layer height

• 0.40 mm nozzle

• 7 perimeters/walls

• 6 top and bottom layers

• 5% rectilinear infill

Assembly Instructions

I recommend assembling each end first and adding the "bottom tube" as the last piece to connect them.

I also recommend testing how well the tubes fit in the holes, ideally you'd print just one piece first to check that your printer tolerances aren't very different from mine. It is intentionally a tight fit (holes are Ø15.2 mm and tubes are Ø15.0 mm). 

1. Cut the 5 tubes to the right length. I recommend using a tube cutter. You can get one suitable for soft metals like copper for 10€.

2. Place each tube next to something completely straight and rotate it to check if it is straight, and if not, very gently bend it to make it straight. Then check straightness again.

3. Use the printed "Jig_TubeHoles" on each end of a tube and ensure the tube is pushed all the way into the jig.

4. With a jig on each end of the tube, place it on a flat surface to ensure the jigs and thus holes are aligned.

5. Use an Ø3 mm drill and drill holes all the way through the tubes, drilling from the longer side of the jig. This ensures you get a hole that goes straight through and exactly where it needs to be for everything to fit together. Put a sacrificial board under the jig so you don't make holes in your table or floor.

6. Optionally add glue, like epoxy, in each hole before pushing the tube into the holes.

7. Push the tubes into the printed parts, one at a time. If it is a very tight fit you can very gently use a hammer to get it all the way in, but if so put a piece of wood between the tube and the hammer so the tube doesn't deform. 

8. Secure the tubes in the printed parts with screws.

I recommend removing the rubber feet from the case, 2 screws each (8 in total). That way, the small protrusions where the feet were mounted will sit on either side of the printed bottom parts.

Have I forgotten something?

Please let me know and I'll get it fixed! Thank you.

Problems or feedback?

If you have any problems with the design, some feedback or any questions please don't hesitate to contact me.