Parametric Screen Printing Frames, Squeegee & Emulsion Scoop

Parametric Screen Printing Frames, Squeegee & Emulsion Scoop (Fusion)

Short description

Screen printing frames in 4 sizes, preset squeegee and scoop STLs, and editable Fusion files to resize all three.

Description

I’m sharing the files for my 3D-printed screen printing setup. I use these frames to print on paper and fabric, both with paper stencils and with screens I’ve coated and exposed.

There’s a little bit of a knack to getting the mesh taut, but once you’ve done a couple of frames, it gets much easier. Here’s how I put mine together and what I’ve found works best.

What’s Included

• Frame and tensioning rod STLs in four preset sizes.

• Squeegee and emulsion scoop STLs in preset sizes. Choose the sizes that suit your frame.

• Editable Fusion 360 files for the frame, squeegee and emulsion scoop. All three are parametric, so you can make your own sizes.

Option 1 – Print a Preset Size

Download the frame and matching tensioning rods for the size you want, then choose the preset squeegee and emulsion scoop that suit your screen. All the preset STLs open directly in your slicer. Check the outside dimensions of the frame to make sure it fits your build plate.

Option 2 – Make Your Own Sizes in Fusion

Open the relevant Fusion file and go to Modify → Change Parameters. You can change the frame dimensions or adjust the width of the squeegee and emulsion scoop to suit your screen.

Printing

I’ve printed these on both my Bambu Lab A1 mini and my Bambu Lab H2D, using standard PLA and a 0.4 mm nozzle.

I tried PETG, but the tensioning rods didn’t fit properly or pull the mesh taut in my tests. Standard PLA is what I use for these.

Choosing Your Mesh

I usually use around 80T mesh because it’s worked well for me on both paper and fabric. You can choose a different mesh count to suit what you’re printing and the ink you’re using. In my experience, good-quality mesh makes a difference to the finished print.

For paper stencils, inexpensive mesh has been absolutely fine for me. There’s no emulsion to coat and dry, which is where I ran into trouble with some of the cheaper mesh.

For coated and exposed screens, I’d buy mesh from a screen printing supplier and test one frame first before making a batch. Some cheap mesh I bought online warped and sagged in the drying rack after coating. To use up the rest of that mesh, I ended up leaving the coated screens in a dark space for 48 hours to make sure they were dry before exposing them.

I also salvaged some good mesh from a damaged professional screen I was given. That stayed taut in the drying rack and worked straight away.

How I Fit and Tension the Mesh

1. Cut the mesh a little larger than the frame and lay it over the top.

2. Gently press each tensioning rod into place. A rod you’ve already fitted might pop out while you’re adding the next one. Just push it back in and carry on.

3. I use a flat-head screwdriver and a small hammer to gently tap the rods into place. Work your way around the frame until you’re happy with the tension.

4. Once the mesh is taut, I put a little superglue over the corners. The mesh can split a little there as you tension it. I’ve sealed small splits with superglue and carried on using those screens. If you want to secure the mesh further, you can run a bead of superglue around the whole frame once you’re happy with the tension.

How I Expose the Smaller Screens

I use an exposure unit with a vacuum cover. With these small frames, the cover doesn’t always pull down far enough to press against the mesh in the middle of the frame.

I cut a few pieces of cardboard to fit roughly inside the frame and stack them behind the mesh, over the area where the design sits. The cardboard goes on the vacuum-cover side, with the artwork on the light side. When the vacuum pulls the cover down, it presses on the cardboard and helps hold the mesh flat against the artwork during exposure.

I’m not sure how much difference it makes with other exposure units, but it’s worked well with mine.

Inks I’ve Used

I’ve used professional inks I mix myself and ready-mixed pots I’ve bought online, including inks for paper and inks for fabric. They’ve all worked well for me. I just pick an ink that suits what I’m printing onto.

Reusing Exposed Screens

Once I’ve exposed a screen, I keep it in my little library of designs so I can print it again. I haven’t tried stripping the emulsion.

Find Me Elsewhere

FlitchCreative website · Instagram · Buy Me a Coffee

If you make a frame, I’d love to see what you print with it! Upload a Make on Printables or tag @flitch.creative on Instagram.

Happy making!