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Digital Arcade Flightstick 3 The Raptor - STL version! — image 1
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Digital Arcade Flightstick 3 The Raptor - STL version!

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Now I'm on v3 of my Digital arcade Flightstick series I am starting to think it shouldn't be digital anymore, so I…

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Model information

License
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UPDATE 02/04/25:  Added Ultimarc & M10x30 Hex nut compatible raptor bodies (Many thanks to user francislej ) 

UPDATE 31/05/24: Fixed errors in Raptor MAIN body STL, now V45. Print upright on bed.
 

UPDATE 29/05/24: This has been exclusive to my Patreon for two years, it's time for The Raptor to fly free.

 

Analog Update: Received my cheap analog arcade joystick mechanism from AliExpress and I can confirm that The Raptor fits and works well BUT it doesn't have a strong recentering effect so it needs to be mounted flat and not at an angle plus I can't vouch for how long it will last because I only just got it. $24 AUD (Around $17 USD) inc. postage, If you want to try it out.
Link is down in the misc. notes.

...

Now I'm on v3 of my Digital arcade Flightstick series I am starting to think it shouldn't be digital anymore, so I have searched down a not-too-expensive (read: cheap) arcade analog stick and placed an order. I did consider the Ultimarc UltraStik (especially the 360FS) but the cost was high and you could buy an off the shelf analog stick for less.

If anybody has a spare UltraStik or knows of a cheap way to get one to Australia please message me.

Anyway, continuing on from my other flightsticks, "The Raptor" is relatively simple to print and requires only 8 of a single type of push button to be ready for battle!

Obviously, you will need to wire up the buttons, have a Sanwa clone joystick to plant it on and an encoder to interface with your chosen device.

The reason this version has a separate front cover is so you can consolidate the ground wires from the back 5 buttons, thus reducing the amount of wiring running through the body. I also would suggest feeding a wire up to the trigger push button location from the bottom, the turn is a little tight to be able to feed it from the top.

As a connection suggestion, considering that there are 8 fire buttons and a ground wire you could use a coiled spring type cable terminating in a 9pin D plug with a connector situated on the front of your control panel, or just under if it overhangs.

I hope someone gets as much of a kick out of this as I did designing and making it, this is not the end of the flightstick series but I might have a go at a few others things in the meantime.

 

MY PATREON & PATREON SHOP.
https://www.patreon.com/3DFreeman

You could join up for a month and download the STL files for all my designs
or you can now buy bundles from my Patreon shop for $3

Here's a non-affiliate ebay link to the type of cheap and cheerful Sanwa clone I use:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334119951114?hash=item4dcb19db0a:g:Ka0AAOSwaqxhHjfn&frcectupt=true

And the momentary push button switches:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/226501722812?itmmeta=01JTCCZV25HD7YE95CBA9BHMHE&hash=item34bc8e02bc:g:J4wAAOSwuGdnYR7r

Thanks for checking out my designs.

Print Settings

Printer:

Adventurer 4

Rafts: 

No

Supports:

No

Filament:

PLA

Misc. notes:

Overly long AliExpress link to SJ@JX Arcade Controller 3D Analog Joystick:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002797741274.html?… etc

 

Category: Video Games

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