Printed Prusa Frames MK3 MK2 2020 2040

Printable MK3, MK2 and MK3 2020+2040 frames and beds specifically printable on the Prusa XL. 

Use heat resistant materials. (example in the picture is PETG, the bed is prusament PCCF). Use high infill and perimeters. The frame will flop without it. I supported my frame with metal scrap parts all around the frame and it made the frame significantly stiffer. I tapped the holes of the frame and bed carriage with a m3 tap. Requires longer m3 screws for all the parts that attach the frame and bed carriage. The back plate on mine had a really weird length, so have m3 washers on hand as well. 

Notes that you should really read before making one- 

Attach the metal reinforces to the frame to make it straight, I attached them to one side of the frame flush and extended the others outward. The attached picture is what areas I added metal supports. Try not to get metal parts that extend into the x axis area as it does need clearance to move there. 

Use the mk3 bed for the 2020/2040 frame. 

The frame in the files is 16mm high by default, you must cut/print the extrusions to compensate  (default extrusion lengths are 120 and 205), CUT THE 120 EXTRUSION not the 205. (ex. the default prusa frame is 6mm for reference, so a 16mm frame would require 2 110mm extrusions for the back instead of the default 120). The limit on how small this can be is dependent on your power supply and einsy enclose mounting areas. 

Make the front and back frame as thick as you want, I did 16mm. 

You can add nuts for all the screws that attach to the frame except the right z axis holder and the electronic enclosure. Tap these ones and dont mess up. 

The bed carriage is 10mm high by default. Print this in a rigid and heat resistant material (I used Prusament PCCF) I used threaded standoffs from my prusa mini instead of the regular mk3 standoffs. Its easier to assemble than the regular ones. You must tap the center hole with a m3 tap, unless you have a y belt tensioner that has an access hole for it. 

Try not to home the bed without a plate installed, it will crash into the heat bed and can cause permanent damage. 

You may have to create/find new firmware to make this bed carriage work as you may run into a z axis error for height due to not having enough length. I had to use the Bear firmware to get mine to calibrate as mine only raised to 206mm, not 210. (Although this may be due to my extruder not the bed carriage).  

This frame is lacking some of the side holes near the electronics, (this means that some einsy enclosures may not work, I used this one to get around this for a mk3 https://www.printables.com/model/130160-einsy-rambo-board-reversed-case 

There is a lack of holes near the bottom of the frame for zip ties. I used some leftover Uchannel for this but it is easier to drill small holes in the frame before installing it. 

There is a jank plate for converting the side of the 2020 extrusions to match the width of the 3030 extrusions. This allows for securing regular einsy enclosures to the smaller extrusions. 

The 2040 frame conversion requires all the parts from the 2020 frame as well as its special parts. The 2040 sits low enough on the floor that it allows the extrusions themselves to be the feet of the printer. 

Regular spool holders will not work with this, so remix one so it will fit your frame. I used this as my base for one https://www.printables.com/model/236182-one-piece-spool-holder-prusa-i3-mk2-mk3-edition

Here is the source “cad”, if you want to edit stuff.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/lydmrxVwV7l?sharecode=-ywflOsFEA2Jntc0SOTFyCnX5Z0CNt3FNuVj2t9DX4o