Drybox for Ender 3 Switchwire

This is a box to have 4 1kg spools (180-210mm wide74mm) on top of a Vororn Ender 3 Switchwire mainly, but can be adapted to other printers if you can CAD. (STEP file is included by projects).

Filamente goes in through the oblong hole and there is a rail with fasteners for extra filament that is not in use, you can move them around so the filement does not cross each other when you use a spool.

The box has an acrylic front to see the spools which can be 3 or 4 mm thick, there is a silica holder at the back which can be removed without having to open the box or you can have a closed back wall if you want to.

The lid is kept closed by gravity, but there is also room to insert a pair of magnets (Ø8X3mm)

for the time being there are some problems that will be fixed later:

1. the hinge only goes to 110 degrees, this is not enough for the lid to stay up, so if you let go of the lid it will fall down.
2. I will make an extra guide for the filemen up with the spools because they are pulled sideways when you have high prints, these are not finished, but the holes are already in place.

Parts you need:

SHCS M3x8mm: 30 pcs
SHCS M3x16mm : 8 pcs
FHCS M3x6mm: 1pc (can be done without)
M2x10mm Self Tapping screw: 2 pcs
BHCS M5x12mm: 2 pcs
M3 hexagon nut: 12 pcs
M3 heat inserts: 40 pcs
M3 T-nuts: 3 pcs

All of these screws are based on this kit that came with a siboor ender 3 to SW, i have seen it on aliexpress before, but can't find it now.

https://www.siboor.com/product/ender-3-v2-ender-3-pro-upgrade-to-voron-e3-switchwire-kit/ 

16 pcs Ball bearings: Mr128zz 8x12x3.5mm: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004120192357.html you need 16 of these (two 10-packs)

2 pcs optional magnet, not required: 8mmx2mm: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002849121641.html 

8 pcs D8mm L78-81mm linear rods, often used on printers, I use some extra I had, total length at least 650mm

you can try to print them if you want, the file is: 8mm rollers, spool (if you print rollers)

Max size acrylic 130x318mm (3/4mm thick) (measure what you printed before cutting to compensate for plastic shrinkage)

What to print

Green is what should be ptintet regardless

Red is for the two types of lids you can have, choose one of them based on what type of thickness acrylic you have

Blue is for the two types of back wall you can have, the one called "base back wall, with silica drying box" is for silicabox on the back of the box shown in the pictures, this makes it into a dryboks, choose one of them

Before you print!!!!!!!!

Your printer has a print area of 220x230, Z175 or larger, the lid must be rotated 10 degrees to fit and you may have to printe a little slower than usual if you do the lide on a bed slinger.

You mainly do not need support for these parts, but if you want double-sided tape underneath to hold the panels together more, you may have to run into just a base plate for: Guide right and Guide left. If not, you can just leave a little hole here

if you are going to have the drying box at the back, you must have support on the part called: silica box lid, as shown in the picture

To have the best possible printing of all the small holes on the part called: Silica box, you should only have one wall on the first layer and 0.4mm wall thickness, you should also have it do the outermost wall first, this is standard, check the box if you use the Orca slicer

Assembly step:

1: Insert ball bearings and heat inserts in base parts

Red: ball bearings 

Blue, heat inserts

Name: Left side, spool 1

Name: Center left, spool 2

Name: Center Right, spool 3

Name: Right side, spool 4

Name: Left divider, 1-2

Name: Right divider, 3-4

If you are going to have the drying box on the back, you also need to insert heat inserts in: back wall with silica drying

2: Now all the parts mentioned above have to be assembled. The parts are best put together by following the arrow and doing the steps of making the red arrows first, then the blue arrows, then finally the green arrows, it might be good to do one side at a time on the green arrows. The rollers are marked in blue and are threaded in while the plastic parts come together, you may need to use a bit of glue to make them sit, but shouldn't be necessary.

there are also fasteners that pack panels fit into that you should be aware of

Now the box should look like this, if you don't have the dry box there just isn't a hole in the back wall

you can now put 6 pcs M3x8mm in the back plate

There is also room for an M3x6mm screw in the mitt to provide more support so that there is no crack between the two middle holders

2.1: If you want to wear the dry box, it can now be attached with 4 M3x8mm screws as shown

Thread the lid into the holes on the dry box, you have to bend the lid a little to get it in

3: Put together the guide

start by inserting heat inserts in the following parts, there are both front and back on these

Name: Guide right

Name: Guide left

You can now assemble the two halves with 2 pcs M2x10mm Self Tapping screws, remember that you screw straight into the plastic so do not screw too hard. you can also add an 8m magnet if you want where the green arrow is

You can now put the Guide together with the Base, on the underside you screw 8 pcs M3x12mm screws, you may have to keep the two parts aligned so that it lies flat on the table when you have screwed them together.

Finally, you can put the covers on the front with 4 pcs M3x8mm screws

4: You can now screw on the hinges for the lid in the back, you insert 6 pcs M3 nuts on the underside and 6 pcs M3x8mm on the top

Insert a heat insert into the lid

Name: Lid Left (3mm/4mm) 

Name: door handle

green arrow for magnet if you want it

Put the two parts of the lid together with the acrylic between them, if it's a little loose, you can put some glue in there

Insert an M3x8mm between the two parts in the corner

screw the handle to hold the two parts together, 2 pcs M3x8mm screws

Now you can put the cover on the hinges, you can either put all the screws in the hinge and put on the nuts one by one to attach it or put all the nuts in and then put a piece of tape to hold them in place, put in the lid as if the box was closed and then screw it on from above.

You can now screw the box firmly with 2 pcs M5x12mm and a printed washer in the two outermost holes of the 4 on top of the printer, just have a normal screw in the ones you don't screw in here

If you see that the panel hangs a little or you want more grip, you can insert a bit of double-sided tape as shown in the picture, these are based on you cutting a strip into three pieces for the small parts, this uses standard 20mm wide voron spseifiser tape

you insert 3 M3x8mm into the rail with t-nuts on the other side, the mark in green are holes to lead wires to lights in the cabinet, the filament holders are designed with ner zero tolerance, I would recommend scale them up to 100.5% so that they don't move around while the printer is running, you don't have to thread the filemnet in from below, you can just push it through the part when you have to change the plastic.