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CruxLink: Dungeon Tile System - Free and Open Source — zdjęcie 1
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CruxLink: Dungeon Tile System - Free and Open Source

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Free and Open Source Dungeon Tile Building System, Openlock compatible, removable floors, aligned grid, and more!

Ocena
5 / 5
Polubienia
56
Pobrania
312
Wydruki
4
Wyświetlenia
1983
Oceny
3

Aktualizacja u źródła:

Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike

CruxLink is a modular terrain-building system with removable floors and consistently aligned walls. The base tiles are compatible with OpenLOCK, which makes it easy to join them and pull them appart, and modular, allowing you to shape your map in precisely the shape you need it to be. Floor tiles can (and should) be placed over the base tiles to add texture, and walls fit snugly between tiles without compromising the grid layout. You can also use ceiling pieces to make a second floor, or third floor, as needed.

All of the files—both .stl and .f3d —are available in this post. You are free to download, print, modify, upload your changes, and even sell printed pieces yourself, free of charge. Your only requirement is to publish your changes under this same license and give appropriate credit. I built this system so the whole community can contribute and maybe reach a version 2 at some point in the future.

This system was designed with FDM printing in mind and to be as flexible and reusable as possible. The goal is for it to be a modular setup that can be assembled on demand with minimal post-processing and can be easily changed in-game to adapt to shifting terrain.

With the right filament colors, you can print a variety of pieces with no need for paint. Once you find a way to store the pieces, you can build a map before your game night and simply bring it to the table. The pieces join together reasonably well and usually won’t fall apart during transport. With removable floors, you can change the ground mid-game to reflect a new environment.

When printing, I suggest laying pieces flat-side down so they won’t require any supports. 

Floor pieces are 30 mm wide, so most miniatures will fit inside a tile comfortably, even if surrounded by walls on every side. However, the overall map may be larger than your usual setup, about 36% bigger than a usual 2.5cm based grid, so make sure you have enough space before printing. You could try shrinking the pieces yourself but that would required adjusting some parameters in thr .f3d file and I'm not sure it would work as well. 

I also suggest printing just a few pieces first and testing them before committing to a full run. Make sure your tolerances are working properly and scale the pieces as needed.

The OpenLOCK Clip (v5.4) file can be easily found on Printable Scenery’s website. I won’t include it here since it’s under a different license, but it’s free to print, so you’ll have no trouble getting it.

My experience with this system is as follows:

  • It took months to design—but hopefully you won’t have to do that unless you want to.

  • It took weeks to print everything. I only have a Creality K1 that I can run 8–10 hours a day, so you can definitely speed this up.

  • The bases took the longest to print; floors were quite fast and inexpensive.

  • We can assemble an entire scenario from scratch during game night—while narration is ongoing and no battle is happening—and it’s quite fast if every player helps. However, we found it best to leave bases connected in 6×6 grids so we don’t have to fit each tile individually and can focus on placing the floor pieces.

  • These tiles are ideal for illustrating battles or interactive scenarios where positioning matters. If you’re the GM, I strongly suggest assembling the map the day before—at least for areas where you know a battle might occur. The less assembly during the game, the better.

And that’s all! Please let me know your thoughts and post pictures here if you end up printing some—you’ll have my sincere appreciation.

UPDATE August 13, 2025: 
Added a new pre-supported base piece without the middle support section within the openlock gate. Now it'll hopefully accept any kind of modified openlock clip and not just the default one. I recomend that over the default base piece, it fits easier, requires no slicer supports and holds just as well as the original.

Tagi