BTT HDMI7 swing mount for RatRig V-Core 3.1 enclosure

Additional hardware:

• 3x M6x25mm bolts (designed for cap head, but others are viable)
• 3x M6 nuts (flange nuts preferred)
• 5x M3x14mm screws (cap head or personal preference)
• 10x M2x8mm screws (washers optional; cap head or personal preference)
• USB cable
• HDMI cable (take care that the connector housing isn't too large to fit)

Printed parts with multiple pieces:

• 5x display standoff
• 3x bezel buttons

Optional part:

• reset button (I found that the printed button didn't fit very well so I ended up going without, expecting to just use a paperclip if I ever needed to reset the display)

Print recommendations:

• PETG, ASA or ABS for most parts, except
• TPU for the “spring”.  TPU settings should have minimal perimeters, minimal top/bottom layers and minimal infill for best squish.
• 4 perimeters
• 5 top/bottom layers
• 25% fill

Assembly:

1. Mount the side bracket to the upper side enclosure panels.  The existing bolts should be long enough for this.
2. Bolt the hinge onto the side bracket with two M6x25 bolts.  The remaining hole should be on the top.
3. Set the hdmi7 face down.  Place the 5 stand-offs over the mounting holes.  If you're planning on using the reset button, insert it into the display mount and maybe tape it to keep it from falling out (on the outside, where the round hinge piece is).  Set the display mount on top of this with the round hinge piece facing up and on the opposite side from the USB and HDMI connectors.  Fasten with screws.
4. Connect the HDMI and USB cables.
5. Set the bezel face down and insert the three buttons.
6. Carefully move the display and mount into the bezel, taking care to keep the buttons from falling out.  This is the step where I cracked the glass in mine.  Make sure to thread the USB and HDMI cables out of the cutouts in the bezel.  Fasten the bezel to the display mount with screws.
7. Bolt the display to the hinge using the final M6x25 bolt and flange nut, with the TPU spring in the “cup” on the hinge.
8. Run the cables back to the RPi, using as many of the cable guides as you see fit.  They are sized for the cables I used, and are meant to be attached using the existing bolts for the enclosure.

The M6 bolts should be as tight as you feel comfortable with to still be able to move the display around.