BFB0524HH Clear Fan Housing (BETA)

I had to rebuild my Stealthburner front  panel because I accidentally installed it off-by-one pin.  Do this right, and it applies too much voltage to the LEDs and lets the smoke out of a small logic buffer on the HartK PCB with Fan LEDs.

I decided to use Delta fans as they have a good reputation, but they are different than the GDSTimes I used in my previous version.

Version 2: It is now 2 pieces.  The motor can be separated from the housing.  This aids in maintenance, if you want to change the bearings.  

• This was printed with tolerances that work for my printer and setup.  Your mileage may vary.  The parts are pretty small and precise so you have to have a reasonably tuned setup.  Standard Voron print settings.
• I recommend you print both parts and make sure you have a tight, but sliding fit between the two parts before you proceed to assembly.
• Glue the mount (part one) to the back of your deconstructed motor/fan.  Make sure it sits flush and flat.  The part designed to avoid electrical components and solder blobs on the PCB and still provide some places for the glue to be in contact with the board.  If your solder blobs or PCB components are different, then you might have to figure out how to get the mount to attach properly.  Use a spring clip to hold in place wile the glue dries  completely.  I printed mine in black ASA.
• After the glue dries, you can install the motor in the housing (part 2).  Rotate the base place in the housing until the wire channel lines up.  (See animation)

Some notes:

• Get real delta fans from a reputable source.  I got counterfeit ones to start.  I used a BFB0524HH-F00 as it has a tach output as well.
• I also used an Orion OD4010-24HB01A with tach output.  Did you know that the color of the 3rd wire means something?  The white one is tach.  Other colors are for things like “fan run/fan stalled” signals that are not a tach.  Get a real one with a white wire.  Counterfeits are rampant. TIL.
• Like the GDSTime fan, the back housing also has the “hub” of the fan, which the rear bearing is pressed into.  Again, I cut away everything up to the hub that holds the bearing (see photo) and then glued the PCB to the housing.
• If your'e adventurous, you can change the bearings and the circlip with hybrid ceramic bearings and a metal circlip.  Thanks to @Meelis for this information on discord. I found that the M2 clip worked better on the Delta than the M3, but it's not easy to install. (I also found the M2 clip to be too large for a GDSTime fan, so I might try a M1.5 to see if that works better.
• I tried using a DLP resin printer with ultra clear resin this time, but my old PETG housing worked fine for a long time (though it was a little yellowed after a good amount of usage) Update: for version2 I went back to PETG, as the resign one was more brittle and cracked after some time.
• The geometry of this housing is a little different (I made the back a little thicker). After some trial and error, I think this works best for this fan, but YMMV.
• This works great with a Nitehawk-SB, but you'll have to desolder the male header and replace it with an 8-pin female header (on the faceplate board)
• I messed up the tach on my motor somehow.  Possible manhandled it when removing the  housing or when replacing the bearings.  Take your time and be careful.

Marking this as “BETA” as I haven't run the assembled fan much yet.  These fans are expensive, so it could be a $17 failure if it doesn't work.  Proceed at your own risk.