Liczymy pasujące modele…
To make the electrical contact between the different battery slots, it's necessary to insert 2 paper clips at height 11.2 mm. This pause is included in the 3mf file. Holes in the body allow to test the electrical voltage path along the 3…
Use 0.15 or 0.10 mm layer, for better result. Thread must be adjusted with a tap (M3.5 - 0.6): the M3mm, that I had, works fine, slowing screwing back and forth to create the good inner dimension.
These are very simple tweezers, similar to the one supplied with a water mist magic pearls . I made it since we did not found spare parts in the local store.
For future creative works, I need an additional drill tool for my lathe. No specific recommendation for the printing process. I use PLA and 0.2 mm layer. No brim. The A model has a wider diameter to fit the rear of the body. The B model…
I use 0.1 mm layer but thinner should look nicer.
The mold consists in 2 main parts: the main body (in blue and green on the photos) which holds the front and the 2 sides of the bracelet the locker part (in yellow on the photos) which keeps the skin folded on the back of the bracelet The…
When using the STL file with your slicer, in the ‘Print Setting/Horizontal shells’ tab, set the top and bottom layers to 0. You can also change the 'Infill/Fill pattern' to your choice (except Concentric that will not really protect your…
I started braiding bracelets using commercial strings but I wanted to cut my own ones. Using a simple cutter and thumb is possible but it needs practice. The tool is available in a heavy and expensive version for professionals; this…
I did not test it on my lathe but the goal, as a mechanical exercise, is to cast the raw shape in aluminium, then transform it (drill, turn, saw) to the PLA model. 2 identical units should be printed. Brim and support on build plate…
As I suspect problem with the voltage level of the battery of my scooter (160 GS - y1963), I decide to install a permanent voltage meter under the seat. The assembly does not interfere with the normal use. A push switch allows to activate…
I started with [thingiverse/thing:3738687 by SantiMZ], and added an assembly for the ESP32 and the associated electronics. All parts are inserted in a standard PVC pipe which is fixed on top of a water tank. A mobile cover protects the…
The part fits both left and right sides. Printing on a side, as shown on the pictures, will enhance strength; Brim and support on build plate are set. Better use PETG as temperature can be high in the car.
This stamp kit works well with a 1 mm thick leather. I use a similar stamp to emboss my logo. No special parameters during printing. Wet your piece of leather and insert it between the two parts; press these layers for an hour. I use a…
I increase the thickness of the main plate and insert the VESPA script. A second file is available for the specific Vespa GS large frame scooter that I own (1963 model). As ‘gravity’ mention, better to print it with PETG filament.
The gcode prints in 3 colors: the first one for the back of the coaster, the second one for the turtle, the last one for the finishing.
This adapter will allow you to directly connect a Dyson flexible to your dust shoe device,
This replaces the broken part for the Tomcat white color model. The rear axis is a bamboo skewer pic. Printing on this face increases the rigidity of the part.
These parts are very easy to print. Glue the broken part to the printed part; the vertical part of the latter one will fit in the frame of the house (see attached pictures).
The gcode allows to print in 3 colors: the first one for the back of the coaster, the second color for the leaf, the last one for the finishing. But you can choose your best colors.
Inside pipe dimension is 22.2 mm . Printed in PLA but PETG is better for hot summer temperature. Source file: ‘Blender 4.2.1’
The gcode allows to print in 2 colors: the first one (green in my case) is for the back of the coaster and the salamander, the second color (black) is for the finishing. It's up to you to choose your color.
Very easy to print: Better to print it in PETG and as shown on the first picture to increase robustness. The original one (broken!) is on the second picture.
Don't use PLA as it does not support sun temperature. Once both parts printed, heat the head of the lever to easily fit in the bottom part; then glue the top part.
Easy to print. The hole in the middle of the part is not used in the final assembly. The part is inserted from inside to outside.
Supports have been integrated to the model to minimize the printing time. It must be cut before inserting the phone. Brim is not necessary for printing.
Two files are available. One with supports for the different socket windows to allow faster print as it avoids support on the build plate during the print. The benefit in printing time is about 30% on my PRUSA MKS3 printer. However, these…
The iMou camera (Ranger 2C-H3) is a self standing device and has no screw to fix it. This model allows to handle it and to fix it on a tripod standard screw. No camera dismantling to avoid warranty disruption. Made with 3 parts: the X and…
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