Filament Cutter - Creality Ender 3 V3 KE

This filament cutter was designed to be used in conjunction with my custom 8-line Pico MMU. The model was remixed with the referenced models using Tinkercad. 

Assembly instructions

• Print all parts
• Insert the brass insert nut into all holes 
• Replace the 5015 and 4020 fan connectors with the JST SH1 mini, maybe you need to invert the GND with 24V in the connector
• Attach the 5015 fans to the FatBurner frame
• Attach the 40mm fan adapter to the hotend
• Attach the 4020 fan to the 40mm adapter
• Disassemble the toolhead (just detach the radiator of hotend from the rear panel)
• Cut the PTFE, leaving only 1mm protruding from the hotend (radiator) 
• Make an internal cone-shaped cut in the PTFE to facilitate filament entry 
• Attach the cutting base to the hotend radiator (use the 25mm screws) 
• Attach the extruder motor
• Insert a section of the box cutter blade into the blade support (match the side you will be inserting, as shown in the images). Use pliers to avoid injury, and be careful not to break the blade. To better secure it and prevent it from coming loose during use, I recommend using cyanoacrylate glue.
• Insert a filament for testing
• Manually push the blade supportinto the cutting base to verify that it is cutting the filament (some force is required). 
• Remove the blade support from the cutting base. 
• Connect the fans to the extruder plate. 
• Attach the FatBurner frame and install the left 6mm screw to secure the frame. 
• Position the servo holder with the 8mm screws along with the FatBurner frame.
• Insert the gear into the servo (this will require considerable force to fit correctly).
• Connect the servo to the power supply to set it to its initial position (0º).
• Reinsert the blade support into the cutting base, lightly touch the filament, and then back off 1mm.
• Insert the servo into the servo holder. Be careful not to move the blade support inward and scrape the filament (I use a highlighter to mark the blade support's  position, so when I need to disassemble it for maintenance, the blade support is always in the correct position).
• Tighten all the servo screws. 
• Change the servo's position electronically until the cut is complete (from 0 to the cutting angle, it is usually close to 90. Whenever you change the angle to test the cut, go back to 0 and test with the new angle, this way you simulate the cutting movement and do not force the servo).
• Add petroleum jelly to the moving parts
• And that's it folks!

Required parts

• 8x Brass insert nut m3 4mm OD x 4mm length 
• 4x Superb screws (for the fan adapter)
• 4x m3 flat head Allen screws 20mm 
• 2x m3 flat head Allen screws 8mm 
• 1x m3 flat head Allen screw 6mm 
• 4x m3 Allen screws 8mm 
• 2x m3 Allen screws 25mm 
• 2x Fan 5015 24v 
• 1x Fan 4020 24v 
• 3x JST SH1 mini 1.25mm connector
• 6x Heat shrink tubes
• 1x Servo TD-8120MG 20Kg or MG995 10Kg 
• 1x 1m PTFE Creality 2mm ID
• 1x Knife box cutter blade

Print settings using PLA / ABS

• Infill: 100%
• Support: Yes
• Support Type: Snug and Tree Organic (for the FatBurner frame)
• Raft Layers: 10 (only for the FatBurner frame)

Notes

• I recommend printing the parts that are close to the hotend in ABS to avoid deformation of the PLA.
• I also recommend using the TD-8120MG 20kg servo, it is much more robust. 
• Before using these servos, check if your MMU board supports the servo current. 
• If you have a camera mount, be careful, the filament cutter may hit it. There is a specific mount that doesn't cause problems.
• All models are in the correct position for printing. If you have any doubts about how to print, use the attached 3MF.