Xteink X4 Rugged Case with light

Features:

• Rugged case

• Reading light

• USB port is accessible with the case on

Printing:

Everything should print as the slicer opens the a few notes however:

• x4-case-top: print this face down on the print bed without supports

• x4-case-battery-cover: print with the narrow part down and the holes for the threaded inserts and the cutout for LilyPad CR2032 battery holder the facing up

• 4-case-battery-tray: prints with the flat part down

• x4-case-housing: paint tree support with the "bed only" option under the overhang of the charging port cut out.

Parts list:

• 6x M3 threaded inserts (https://www.amazon.com/HANGLIFE-Heat-Set-Threaded-Printing-Components/dp/B0CS6VZYL8)

• 4x M3 x 8mm countersunk screw (https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a16011300ux0871-M3x8mm-Carbon-Countersunk/dp/B01D8L4XVE)

• 2x M3 x 6mm countersunk screw (https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a16011300ux0870-M3x6mm-Carbon-Countersunk/dp/B01E5EOIWW)

• 28 AWG wire

• 1x LilyPad CR2032 battery holder (https://www.amazon.com/DAOKI-Battery-Holder-Lilypad-Arduino)

• 1x Adafruit nOOds - Flexible LED Filament - 3V 300mm long - Warm White (https://www.adafruit.com/product/5503) or any other flexible LED filament you can get your hands on

Assembly:

Assembly can be a bit tricky at points but if you refer to the guide below it shouldn't be to hard

1. Add 4 M3 threaded inserts to the housing (x4-case-housing)

   

2. Solder 2 wires to the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals of the Lilypad CR2032 battery holder and place it into the cutout on the back of the housing (x4-case-housing)

   

3. Add 2 M3 threaded inserts to the battery cover (x4-case-battery-cover)

   

4. Use 2 M3 x 6mm screws to attach the battery cover to the housing

   

5. Pass the wires through the wire cover (x4-case-top-wire-cover). Make sure the raised part of the wire cover faces inwards, towards the cavity for the X4. Then solder on the led filament beware of the polarity on the filament the negative (-) wire should be on the left in the picture below and the positive (+) wire on the left. I found the easiest way to do this is to use helping hands or a coffee mug to prop up the case in a standing position and to try and keep the wires as short as possible 2 to 3 cm outside of the housing.

   

6. Guide the filament through the groove in the top cover (x4-case-top)

   

7. Next sandwich the filament between the top cover (x4-case-top) and the wire cover (x4-case-top-wire-cover). It's easiest to have the top cover with the filament lying down then gently slide the wire cover down over the wires until the top cover (x4-case-top) and the wire cover (x4-case-top-wire-cover) meet. To keep the top cover (x4-case-top) and the wire cover (x4-case-top-wire-cover) together pass 4 M3 x 8mm screws through the screw holes. The  screw holes should be tight enough to keep the halves together.

   

8. Next insert the navigation buttons (x4-case-center-middle-button-x2 and x4-case-center-outside-button-x2) into the top cover (x4-case-top)/wire cover (x4-case-top-wire-cover) combo. The outside buttons have a rounded side beware of this. To keep them in place you can add a bit of electrical tape to the back of the buttons.

9. Next insert the power and up and down buttons into the housing, the power button should be slightly wider than the up and down buttons. To keep them in place you can either add a bit of electrical tape to the back of the buttons, or just insert the X4.

10. Lastly put together the housing and the top cover (x4-case-top) and the wire cover (x4-case-top-wire-cover) and screw in the 4 M3 x 8mm screws. Be sure not to pinch the wires going to the LED filament. They can be pushed into the cavity in the housing.

That's it your X4 case should be assembled!