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I upgraded my Voron V2.4 with a CAN-toolboard. To fully replace the x and y drag chains, it is necessary to relocate the X and Y endstops. For X, there is a mount at the back of the toolhead carriage. For Y, it's common to move the…
Regreasing the linear rails on my printers is a frequent task, and with the many rails that don't have working grease-holes, it's a bit awkward to get grease into the raceways without taking the cart off. I have established a routine to…
Most Voron printers are based on 2020 6mm T-slot extrusions (aka Misumi extrusions). These covers close horizontal slots so dirt or screws won't get caught. I print this with 2 perimeters and 23% infill, 0.2mm lineheight. It's a fast…
This is a mounting part for the X/Y-Endstop pod of the Voron 2.4, actually a remix of https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/randell/Microswitch_Endstop I found the original design restricts X a bit on the…
I found that my new LGX Lite is 6% off the required extrusion length and needed a calibration. The usual process is like this: 1.) measure 120mm of filament from the extruder inlet and mark or cut the position 2.) slowly(!) extrude 100mm,…
We own a Bestway steel pro pool 259x170, and the nozzles that we found for bigger pools don't fit into the integrated tubes. This is a simple press-fit nozzle. When you use a directed nozzle, turn it so the water runs clockwise through…
My Voron V2.4 contains two dozen F695 flanged bearings. I found that some failed after less than a year, simply because they had run dry. It seems that many economy bearings come with a very low amount of grease inside and will run dry…
Stronger spacers for the V0.2 umbilical. The need the usual heatset inserts Voron style (M3x5ODx4L). The rectangular version is the strongest one that will fit into the space. The circular version is a middle-of-the-road solution, it's…
EVA is designed as a beginner-friendly carriage system, it is based on M3-screws and regular hex nuts. Brass inserts have several advantages over hex nuts: They won't fall out, and the risk of damage from too much torque is lower,…
The shim increases the tension of the bed springs. I found them too loose on my build, and played a bit with different shim thicknesses. 3mm is a nice fit for the yellow standard tension springs. Print these in ABS or better for obvious…
This is for relais with a hole spacing of 45x21mm. You need a standard Voron clip and use 2x M2x10 self-tapping screws to attach the mount to the clip.
I added a toolhead board to my Galileo extruder, and the reduced wire-count suggests to move to an umbilical instead of an energy chain. This mount guides a sleeved wire bundle. My umbilical enters the chamber at the top, through the…
I use Irritec Y-filters for irrigation wells, and over time, the gasket on the filter cartridge hardens up and breaks. This gasked can be printed from TPU (95A or similar) and is a drop in replacement for the ring gasket. You need two,…
Many wallboxes are designed for the cable being looped around the box. Often, the final loop will just flap around, especially when it's windy. I made a clamp that will hold the final loop close together with the rest of the cable. The…
The hoses of our garden pool are thick and a bit floppy. I made this bumper to prevent hard collisions that may shear the hose off. I suggest to print the pins with 4 perimeters or more and at least 30% infill. You want strength for the…
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