PolyDryer Desiccant Plug System

These desiccant containers can be super-glued to the Polymaker's Drybox plugs. I call them "Desiccant Plugs". They are designed to be installed in the Drybox from the outside by rotating them as they go in.

It's such a pain to pull everything out to redry your desiccant when the humidity starts creeping up. No more my PolyDryer fans! Just pop out a saturated Desiccant Plug and swap in a fresh dry one.

Before you glue them together be sure to wipe your plugs and the print with isopropyl alcohol so the superglue bonds really well. The lids are super-glued on after desiccant is loaded inside. You may need to trim any edge or lip remaining around the lid after gluing or they may snag on the drybox. No need to ever take out the desiccant because I have also provided a Redrying Box for these Desiccant Plugs (see stl files).

Make sure the super glue holding your lids on is fully cured before putting Desiccant Plugs into the Redrying box! Since they hang upside down, if your superglue lets go, all the desiccant is going to pour out right into your DryDock output port. Not good!

FYI see print setting recommendations for all files at the end of this description.

The Redrying Box sits over the DryDock's hot output and wet air exhausts out the side. The Redrying Box promotes hot air to pass through the desiccant by keeping the airpath around the sides pretty narrow. I've included an Air Return Tube STL file if you want to print that out and glue it on to recycle the heat. While recycling humid air goes against my intuition of how to dry something, the Polydryer has a pretty weak 65watt PTC element. So to get the temp up high enough for desiccant or filiament to give up its moisture, the Polydryer, I believe, relies on the heat from the recycled air. Not optimal, but it's what we got for now. The Air Return Tube has some slots on the sides so there is some degree of fresh air mixing to get some humidity out of the loop.

If you print Redryer Box and Air Return Tube separately, there may be some big gaps where you might need a 3D Pen to fill and weld them together. Superglue ain't enough. That's why I included the combined file.

FYI I have fully cut out the "grill" inside my Drydock ports to help improve airflow. So the drying performance of your Desiccant Plugs used with my Redrying Box and Air Return Tube may be different than mine if you have not done this mod. Do any modifications to your Drydock at your own risk!

PLEASE BE GENTLE removing Desiccant Plugs from a PolyMaker Drybox. You have to first loosen the seal carefully. Once it is loose, only then start pulling out while rotating. If you pull straight out quickly it will jam hard and you may rip it apart. Spilled desiccant everywhere sucks. Ask me how I know.

You can use a Desiccant Plug in the rear if you're using the stock desiccant container in the front. Or, if you use my Humidity Sensor Holder, you can put a Desiccant Plug in the front as well, it's up to you.

Each Desiccant Plug appears to hold about 20% more desiccant than the stock Polymaker desiccant container. I know it doesn't look like it, but it does. Also greatly increases the surface area to volume ratio cs the stock container, so air has an easier time reaching all the desiccant beads.

Print setting recommendations...

1. Desiccant Plug (PETG with .16mm layer max). No support

2. Redrying Box (PETG with .2mm or adaptive layer height). Needs support for inside lip of the large rectangular opening at top

3. Air Return Tube (PETG with .2mm, .24mm, or adaptive variable layer height). Needs support for large horizontal section

4. Humidity Sensor Holder (PETG with .16mm or .2mm layer height). Needs support for one floating edge

I've included STEP files in case people need/want to tweak some geometry to their needs. I hope you enjoy!