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Better PTFE Coupler for Extrutim's Drybox — zdjęcie 1
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Better PTFE Coupler for Extrutim's Drybox

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The Drybox PTFE coupler sat loose in a 10 mm hole. This remix has a wider groove and a tighter cap.

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Źródło
Printables
Kategoria
Accessories
Licencja
Open Community License v1.1

Better PTFE coupler for Extrutim's Drybox

The PTFE coupler from Extrutim's Drybox is a great idea, but in my build it didn't fit well. The groove (9.5 mm) was narrower than the 10 mm hole, so it sat loosely, and the cap didn't hold in the neck. This remix fixes the fit.

What's changed

  • Wider groove, so the coupler sits tight in the hole (made for 2 mm wall thickness)

  • Cap stem 7.8 -> 8.3 mm and cap head 8.5 -> 8.9 mm, so the cap holds in the neck

  • Foot, flange, 4 mm bore and ball chamber are unchanged

  • Same layout as the original: coupler, tether and cap in one file

Which file for which hole

  • PTFE-Coupler_10mm.stl: for 10 mm holes, groove 10.7 mm. I tested this one in a 9.98 mm hole.

  • PTFE-Coupler_11.75mm.stl: for 11.75 mm holes, groove 12.45 mm, bigger foot and flange. This one is for everyone who drilled the hole too large, like me. [tested / not tested yet]

My prints came out 0.3-0.4 mm smaller in diameter than the model (foot 11.06 instead of 11.4 mm, flange 12.57 instead of 13.0 mm). That is already taken into account. Measure your groove after printing: it should be 0.3-0.4 mm bigger than the hole.

Printing

  • Material: Siraya Tech Flex TPU 85A (dried before printing)

  • Printer: Snapmaker U1, 0.6 mm hardened steel nozzle

  • Roughly 215-220 C, 0.2 mm layers, slow outer walls (about 20 mm/s), 100% infill

  • Textured PEI plate, no glue. A little isopropyl alcohol helps to release the part.

  • Support only under the tether (18 mm span). The support comes off easily even without isopropyl alcohol. You can also cut the tether and print the parts separately.

  • Keep the filament path free of tension (leave some slack between spool and printhead). My prints failed after 2-3 layers until I fixed this.

  • Remove strings with a scalpel, not a flame: the thin lip at the neck deforms.

Assembly

  1. Push the foot through the hole first. A drop of dish soap or silicone grease helps. Press straight, don't tilt.

  2. Push the 4 mm PTFE tube all the way in.

  3. Press the cap head through the neck.

Notes

  • No PTFE feed-through is perfectly airtight. The four small gaps around the tube are still there as in the original. A rough estimate shows that very little moisture gets in this way. Use a hygrometer and silica gel with indicator beads.

  • Credits to Extrutim for the original project.

  • The geometry changes were made with AI assistance.

Tagi