Snapmaker U1 SAMLA Hat by Muts EVO

I wanted to remix the SAMLA Hat by Muts:

I tightened up the dovetail tolerances a bit for a more positive fit but the main driver for this was to include an adhesive foam strip around the rim to act as a gasket; in hopes of better sound insulation. So I ended up fitting some snap clamps - derived from this toggle latch:

I kept the most of the geometry, and only redesigned the top of the hook to fit my needs; these clamps snap shut and open very satisfyingly.
There are 6 clamps total on the final enclosure - two on each of the sides except the back.

I also added some spreader bars - heavily inspired by the geometry in this model:

There isn't much load to distribute but they help to keep the SAMLA box square and tight to the "hat"; 2 of them (for the front) are smooth, and 4 of them have notches; to move them up/down the long sides and adjust the clamping if/as needed. You can also modify these pretty easily in slicer if you want to adjust the clamp's tension/snap without having to redesign or re-print large parts.

There are some pin-style feet that are meant to fit OVER the factory rubber plugs; helps locate everything and keep everything square and tight. The feet can also be screwed into the factory printer's holes, using the factory screw.

I also wanted to cut down on print time; and on material used so I shaved the hat by a few mm so that it is the "slimmest" possible without the PTFE tubes rubbing against the SAMLA box. The distance between the flange on which the box rests/gasket is set and the bottom of the print is 20mm; the raised rim is 10mm in height, for a total of 30mm.
With that in mind, accessories like tool holders meant for the original Slim SAMLA Hat by Muts will not fit.

For printing recommendations; these don't need to be super strong, but it's probably best to give them lots of small infill pockets just to help with the repeated gasket compression; 2-3 walls, 20-25% adaptive cubic infill should be plenty.

I would definitely add "mouse ears" to the corners of the dovetail parts - between the chamfer the the geometry of the part, these tended to curl up a bit - they're built into Orca slicer (Others > Brim > Brim Type > Mouse Ears) but you can also insert you own "disc" and place/size them how you want that way.

I also added a one-layer-tall strip for the spreaders to print nice and flat; and easily.

You can fit the two middle parts on a single plate; and you can fit the two front parts on a single plate as well. I wasn't able to find a way to print both rear pieces on a single Snapmaker U1 plate though.

You'll need supports for a few of these parts - assuming you're printing in PETG:

• The hooks are printed on the side, with supports - use PLA supports with 0 Z gap (top and bottom) and 3-4 interface layers. I printed mine solid (by wall count), as well as the clips and the pins. The hooks will give you the most trouble to remove supports so keep calm.

• The front and rear hat pieces - they all have at least one bar that the latch clips onto that needs supporting. You can also support the pin holes but that's not necessary. The cleanest supports I got where when I set them like this:

  • 0mm Z gap distance, top and bottom

  • 4 interface layers

  • Set up with support enforcers and threshold angle set at 40.

• The pins - if you ever want to screw them down, use supports - it's so easy with multi-material printing that you may as well; but if you just want to push them into the rubber seat, then you can do without them.

• The middle hat pieces, the spreaders and the clips require no supports

Printed mined in Galaxy Black PETG - I wouldn't recommend printing any of these parts in PLA; the chamber reaches 50°C just off the residual heat with the print bed at 75°C, or 55-57°C when the bed is set to 90°C. Mind you that is off the "cavity" sensor, who knows There should be a way to read and wait for the temp of an ambient sensor to reach a certain threshold in gcode with filament profiles ... but